Spain
Full
notes on the 11 high-end Spanish wines that were shown at the second wineanorak
tasting in May. Overall, it was an impressive line-up of wines in a variety of
styles, and we had an enjoyable evening. As long as Spanish city dwellers
(and the important export markets) have enough disposable income to create
demand for expensive wines, the future looks very bright for Spanish wine.
Thanks to Nerval and Nick Alabaster for helping to source some of these
bottles:
they’re not all that easy to get hold of.
Torres
Fransola 1999, Penedes
This is a single vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, half of which is barrel
fermented. Quite a deep colour. On the nose the herby, grassy fruit
combines well with the oak, although the overall effect is a tiny bit
clumsy. The palate is concentrated, rich and full flavoured with a
slightly caramelly edge. Interesting, but might have been better a year
ago, and I much prefer the 2000. Very good+
Xavier
Clua Coma ‘Vindemia’ 1998 DO Terra Alta
This is an ambitious blend of 20% Chardonnay, 80% Garnacha Blanca,
fermented in new French oak. Deep golden colour, this has a remarkable
savoury nose: tight, spicy and caramelly with lifted acidity and a part-oxidised
sherry-like edge. The tight palate is very savoury with good acidity
keeping things fresh. An interesting food wine that works well in an
unusual, old-fashioned style. Very good/excellent
Alvaro
Palacio ‘Les Terrasses’ 1998, Priorat
Lifted, liquoricey nose with ripe herby redcurrant fruit. The palate
ripe, rich herby fruit with an almost lush edge to it. Dry spicy tannins
on the finish. A very attractive modern wine that still reflects its
origins, at least in part. Very good/excellent
Rotllan
Torra ‘Amadis’ 1997, Priorat
This winery was founded in 1984 by Jordi Rotllan Torra, and
‘Amadis’ is made from 100 year old vines producing a measly 10 hl/ha.
It’s extreme stuff. The nose shows very forward smoky, rubbery ripe
berry fruit with a complex roasted edge. The palate shows good acidity and
a savoury, roasted, toasty character. Savoury, spicy and minerally. Very
rich; odd but nice. Very good/excellent
Alíon
1997, Ribera del Duero
Wonderful complex nose with meaty, rich spicy berry fruit and a smoky
lift. The palate is rich, tannic and spicy with a delicious leathery/herby
character. This is a wonderfully expressive wine drinking very well now.
Excellent
Hacienda
Monasterio 1998, Ribera del Duero
A blend of Tempranillo and Cabernet Savignon, made by Peter Sisseck.
On the nose an appealing herbal, animal character underpins the ripe
fruit: quite rich. The palate is broad and spicy, with more animal
character and some sweet fruit. Quite Rhôney. Very good/excellent
Pesquera
Reserva 1996, Ribera del Duero
The smoky, roasted mineralic nose displays brooding berry fruit: we
are drinking this before its time. Dense, ripe, almost meaty palate with a
savoury edge and drying tannins. Dry and spicy, this is a lovely savoury
wine. Very good/excellent
Abadia
Retuerta 1996, Sardon de Duero
Very open sweet herbal nose with a leathery, liquoricey edge. Good
density of herb-tinged fruit on the palate with an attractive spiciness
and a rather modern sheen. It’s drinking very well now. Very
good/excellent
Finca
Valpiedra 1996 Rioja
This single-vineyard Rioja from Martinez Bujanda is very appealing in
a rather Southern Rhône style. The lovely complex nose is slightly meaty,
with a spicy, leathery character. Midweight palate is herby and earthy
with black fruits and a savoury caramel-tinged edge. Good acidity. Very
good/excellent
Bodegas
Bilbainas Vina Pomal Reserva 1996, Rioja
Sweet caramelly edge to the nose. Palate is medium-bodied with a
cinnamon spice tinge. Quite rounded and spicy but with good acidity and
balance. Very traditional style, and may age into an archetypal
traditional Rioja. Very good+
Concavins
Clos Montblanc Masia Las Comes Premium 1999 Conca de Barbera
An ambitious Cabernet/Merlot blend. Quite an elegant nose of spicy,
mineralic blackcurrant fruit. Savoury, chalky, mineralic palate. Brilliant
balance here: a very Bordeaux style, with a leafy edge. Very
good/excellent
wines
tasted May 2002
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