Bibendum Fine Wine
Tasting
Monday March 5th 2001
Home House, Portman Square, London
1999 has been hyped as vintage of the
decade in the Northern and Southern Rhône, hot on the heels of a very
successful 1998. In the Languedoc, 1999 was a good but tricky vintage
by all accounts; less successful than the previous year (1998 was 'vintage of the
century'). This line up of wines was my first chance to try serious
1999s from these regions, and although there weren't enough examples to
draw any general conclusions about the vintage, there
were some real stunners here. The real stand-out wine was Jamet's
1999 Côte Rôtie. I wouldn't be exaggerating by much if I was to
say that this is one of the most stunning wines I've tried in recent
years. A close runner-up is the outstanding Côte Rôtie from
Gilles Barge, and I was also pretty taken by the two Condrieus
from Robert Niero. These wines aren't expensive for the quality on
offer, but if you don't want to a real bargain, the Colombier
Crozes Hermitage Cuvée Gaby from Colombier is a lovely perfumed
Syrah for just £9.20 a bottle (all taxes paid). My tasting notes that
follow are accompanied by the notes from Wine Anorak columnist Nick
Alabaster for comparison purposes (we attended the tasting separately
and wrote our notes up independently). It's interesting to see two
sometimes rather different impressions of the same wines, although
overall the notes tally reassuringly well.
All prices are given per case of 12 (or
6 where specified) in bond (ex duty, ex VAT). To work out the bottle
price, add £14 per case duty, add 17.5% VAT, then divide by 12.
Part 1: Northern Rhône
(see also Part 2: Southern Rhône, Languedoc and Provence)
J-P et J-L Jamet Cote-Rotie 1999
(£210 per case of 12, in bond, ex VAT)
A stunning effort that ranks as one of the best wines I've tasted
in recent years. Vibrant bright purple colour. Lovely, exotic full
nose of intense, pure berry fruit combining with herbs, liquorice and
floral notes. Firm tannins underpin the wonderfully expressive palate,
with many layers of flavour. Dense, concentrated and showing great
balance. Excellent
(Nick Alabaster: Ripe, black fruity nose with
meaty richness and subtle oak. Full, ripe tannins but still more
mid-full in weight with elegance. More Hermitage in style perhaps.
VG+)
Gilles Barges Cote-Rotie Cuvee
Duplessy 1999 (£175 per 12)
Gilles Barge reckons this is the best wine he has ever made.
Bright red purple colour with a sensational nose of pure berry fruit
and the distinctive Syrah characteristics of smoked bacon, liquorice
and herbs. It shows meaty, herby fruit on the palate with great
balance and complexity. A superb wine, but not quite as breathtaking
as the Jamet 1999. Excellent
(NA: Also a sense of good ripeness on the
nose but with a positive floral/Viognier top note that’s attractive.
More elegance on the palate, fewer tannins, medium bodied with crisper
acid. Good fruit-driven finish. More Cote-Rotie in style.
VG+/Excellent. My favourite wine of the tasting.)
Pierre Dumazet Vin de Pays Viognier
1999 (£65 per 12)
Nutty nose has some honeyed notes to it. The rounded palate is
fresh and again shows some honeyed character. Slightly odd, but still
quite nice. Good/very good
(NA: Citrus, some plastic (almost botrytis
like) and floral elements. Simple sweet palate with hard (added?)
underlying acidity. Fair)
Pierre Dumazet Cotes du Rhone Cuvee
du Zenith 1999 (£95 per 12)
Fresh herby nose with some floral notes. Firm acidity and taut
fruit on the palate. Nice, fresh stuff. Very good
(NA: Peachy fruit on the nose flows onto the
palate with enough acidity for balance. A nice, modest white Rhone.
Good, very good for type.)
Pierre Dumazet Condrieu 1999 (£180
per 12)
Quite a full colour, and a delicate, enticing floral nose. It is
quite tight on the palate with some rather subdued peach and pear
fruit, good balance and appropriate acidity. This may well age open
out a bit with a couple of years in bottle. Very good+
(NA: Mid-intensity peachy/buttery fruit on
nose. Crisp acids on entry but softening to a simple mid-weight
palate. Good.)
Pierre Dumazet Condrieu Cote Fournet
1999 (£215 per 12)
I'm not so keen on this cuvée: along with the floral, fruity
notes there is a strong spice element to the wine. It is taut,
alcoholic and quite woody on the palate. Perhaps it will improve with
some age; it is obviously quite an ambitious wine, in a rich style.
Good/very good
(NA: Vanillary/caramelly oak. Oaky palate.
Too much oak, I can’t really judge at this stage whether the fruit
will ever come back into balance….not on my money.)
Robert Niero Condrieu 1999 (£150
per 12)
Now this is my style of Condrieu. Full of interest, it has a
lovely, slightly stinky nose with a smoky edge to the fruit and that
elusive 'burnt rubber' edge that the Viognier grape can sometimes
show. The palate is rich and rounded (with some oak?). Very
good/excellent
(NA: Apricots and bananas [that Beaujolais
yeast character] on nose. Tight, crisp palate but nicely balanced.
Good)
Robert Niero Condrieu Coteau de
Chery 1999 (£185 per 12)
Niero makes this special cuvée from a small parcel of old vine
fruit. This is super stuff. It has an almost exotic nose: smoky, rich
and full, with a rubbery edge to the fruit and some spice to boot. The
full, rich, rounded palate has a spicy finish and plenty of interest.
Very good/excellent
(NA: Richer, deeper preachy/buttery fruit –
some minerals and a waxy element adds interest. Fatter style on the
palate with moderate acidity but maintaining balance. Very good+)
Domaine de Colombier Crozes-Hermitage
Cuvee Gaby 1999 (£80 per 12)
Florent Viale owns 14 ha of vineyards, 12 of which are Crozes-Hermitage
(he also has 1.5 ha of Hermitage and 1.2 ha of Crozes-Hermitage
blanc). A bright red purple colour, this lovely wine has a dense, firm
but open nose with meaty, savoury, varietally true Syrah fruit. On the
palate this is tannic and firm, with quite high acidity. Very
attractive and probably the bargain of the tasting. Very
good/excellent
(NA: Lovely, tarry fruit, complex already
with hints of earth and minerals. Good bright palate – mid-weight,
with modest balanced finish. VG+/excellent Crozes.)
Domaine de Colombier Hermitage Rouge
1999 (£195 per 12)
From a small 1.5 ha holding, this is a very unusual but appealing
wine. It has a distinctive floral and liquorice nose, underpinned by
astonishingly pure fruit. This pure fruit is underpinned on the palate
by firm, dense tannins: it is an interesting and potentially ageworthy
wine, but the fruit makes it tempting now, in its infancy. Very
good/excellent
(NA: Sweeter, jammier nose. Hints of cinnamon
and spicy oak. Palate of same. Mid-weight, modest finish but a touch
longer. VG)
Domaine des Remizieres Hermitage
Blanc 1999 (£185 per 12)
This is a full flavoured wine with good concentration, but it's
currently so dominated by new oak that it's difficult to assess
fairly. May well evolve nicely, who knows?
(NA: Buttery cashewy oak with lees like
notes. Oaky background doesn’t detract from lovely vibrant citrus
fruit with good overall balance and complexity. Lovely white Rhone,
VG+)
Domaine des Remizieres Crozes-Hermitage
Cuvee Particuliere 1999 (£75 per 12)
Firm and tannic, this wine has good density and a nice core of
fruit, but needs some time to come round. At the moment it's a bit
angular. Good+
(NA: Chunky, tannic, farmyardy Crozes. OK)
Domaine des Remizieres St Joseph
Rouge 1999 (£95 per 12)
Dense, almost opaque purple colour. Good concentration. The nose
is a little subdued, and the dense tannins on the palate make this
quite unapproachable at the moment. It's certainly a good wine, but
this will need some time to open out (rather unusually for a St
Joseph). Very good
(NA: Cleaner, riper fruit, touch of oak. Firm
tannic palate. Good)
Domaine des Remizieres Hermitage
Rouge Cuvee Emilie 1999 (£200 per 12)
Dense purple/black colour with a mildly closed nose showing smoky,
spicy fruit. Impressive concentration on the palate, but with rather
brutal tannic structure suggesting that this is one for the long haul.
Very good+
(NA: Oaky style, sweet(ened) jammy fruit with
tarry richness. Tannins firm but nearly covered by extract. Long fruit
driven finish. VG/VG+)
(see
also Part 2: Southern Rhône, Languedoc and Provence)
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