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The wines of Domaine des Aubuisières

32 rue Gambetta, 37210 Vouvray, France
Tel: +33 (0)2 47 52 67 82 or 61 55 Fax: +33 (0)2 47 52 67 81
Website: www.vouvrayfouquet.com E-mail: info@vouvrayfouquet.com
UK agent: Thierry’s (01794 507100; abayliss@thierrys.co.uk)

Bernard Fouquet is one of the best-regarded producers in Vouvray, which is a white wine made from the Chenin Blanc grape. Vouvray can be a bit confusing to the uninitiated: the style of wine can vary from dry to sweet (with sparkling, too), depending on the vintage and choice of the producer. Another variable is whether the grapes have been botrytised. Usually some indication of style is given on the bottle: sec, demi-sec, moelleux or selection de grains nobiles (dry, medium dry, mellow – or sweet, and noble rotted, respectively).

Vouvray enjoyed a run of three excellent vintages – 1995, 1996 and 1997 – from which a large number of sweeter-style wines were made. Since then, vintage conditions have been less kind, and it is only in 2002 that a large number of sweet wines has been produced.

Many UK readers will no doubt be familiar with Fouquets wines, which were stocked by Oddbins for a while a few years ago. I’ve got a fair number of 1996 and 1997s stashed away – mainly the sweeter styles. Most Vouvray ages well, and the sweeter styles – most particularly noble rotted wines – require decades to show their best and will usually last for ever given the right storage conditions.

Domaine des Aubuisières Vouvray Cuvée de Silex Sec 2002
Very dry with a nice savoury intensity. Good acidity – a fresh style. Very good+ 85/100

Domaine des Aubuisières Vouvray Le Marigny Sec 2002
From a limestone vineyard. Open, ripe, slightly herby nose with a refined lifted acid note. Lively, open palate which is fresh, crisp and herby. Quite rich, but dry – a very pretty wine. Very good+ 88/100

Domaine des Aubuisières Vouvray Les Girardières 2002
A silex vineyard. Ripe, open lemony nose with some smoky notes. The palate is medium sweet with fresh slightly herby fruit and quite a bit of residual sugar. Youthful. Very good+ 87/100

Domaine des Aubuisières Vouvray Moelleux 2002
Slightly closed, herby nose with notes of wax and straw. Full, rich palate with some spiciness and dense, herby fruit. The sweetness is well balanced by the acidity, and this is currently very youthful. Very good+ 89/100

Domaine des Aubuisières Vouvray Plan de Jean 2002
Not showing a great deal on the nose – perhaps a bit of herby fruit. Very rich, herby palate with lovely notes of straw and a touch of cheese. Quite sweet with lots of flavour. Very good/excellent 91/100

see also: tasting notes of Loire wines

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