The wines of iconic winery Yarra Yering

YARRA YERING
Yarra Valley winery that's one of Australia's icons

Website: www.yarrayering.com

One of Australia’s vinous treasures, Yarra Yering was set up by the eccentric Dr Bailey Carrodus, who died in 2008. Back in 1973 Carrodus produced the first commercial vintage from the Yarra since 1922.

At one of the dinners during the recent Landmark Tutorial, James Halliday shared some thoughts about these remarkable wines. ‘The vines are totally dry grown blocks, and look pretty dreadful by the time the grapes are picked,’ he revealed, ‘but the wines are wonderful most years.’ He mentioned that up till 1980 there were some problems with volatile acidity, which James thinks was because Bailey was imitating Max Schubert who used to leave bungs out of casks to cut back overly rich fruit with some VA. ‘Some of Bailey’s early vintages were pretty like vinegar.’

Carrodus’ winemaking was quite simple, and a little quirky at times. He processed half a ton of grapes at a time, into a lined tea chest. He did everything himself. The distinctive labels were hand drawn by Bailey’s partner, who predeceased him.

‘Tasting the wines out of cask they are opulent and magnificent,’ says James, ‘but sometimes they didn’t make that to bottle. I have a feeling they could have been greater than they are.’ Total production was around 8000 cases each year of a number of wines, with the range expanding over time.

The stars are the Dry Red No 1 (based on Cabernet) and Dry Red No 2 (based on Shiraz), with the Underhill Shiraz not far behind. While the wines can be a little inconsistent, when they perform they are brilliant. At a recent tasting, the 1980 No 2 and 1989 No 1 were on superb form, showing beautiful purity and elegance. The winery was bought by Kaesler wines in the Barossa in 2009; they intend to keep Yarra Yering the way it was, in the spirit of Carrodus.

THE WINES

1989 Yarra Yering Dry Red Number 1 Cabernet Sauvignon, Yarra Valley
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot. Lovely evolved, earthy, sweet red berry fruits here. Quite rounded with lovely balance. Smooth, elegant and pure, and evolving beautifully with blackcurrant, cherry and blackberry jam notes. Just beautiful. 94/100 (06/09)

1997 Yarra Yering Dry Red Number 1 Cabernet Sauvignon, Yarra Valley
Firm, spicy, earthy nose with nice savouriness. The palate is fresh and spicy with lovely structure to the pure blackcurrant fruit. Very fresh with lovely brightness and good acidity. Deliciously vivid. 93/100 (06/09)

1980 Yarra Yering Dry Red Number 2 Shiraz, Yarra Valley
Shiraz, Viognier and Marsanne. Warm, spicy, earthy, lifted nose with a chocolatey richness. The palate is really rich and dense with sweet, spicy, earthy fruit. Really bold and intense. 94/100 (06/09)

1994 Yarra Yering Dry Red Number 2 Shiraz, Yarra Valley
Quite green on the nose with fresh, sappy, spicy notes. The palate is savoury with a greenness to the earthy black fruits. Perhaps a bit too green? 87/100 (06/09)

2004 Yarra Yering Dry Red No 2, Yarra Valley
Lovely sweet open nose with bright red fruits. Aromatic. The palate is supple with nice sweet red fruit and a bit of meatiness, as well as some spicy warmth. Forward but with depth and elegance. 92/100 (Ł35.25 Berry Bros & Rudd) 10/07

2004 Yarra Yering Dry Red No 1, Yarra Valley
Very earthy, spicy, gravelly edge to the nose which shows bright blackcurrant fruit. The palate is spicy with richness to the red and black fruit countered by some earthy structure. Lovely wine with distinctive sweet fruitiness on the finsh. 92/100 (Ł35.25 Berry Bros & Rudd) 10/07

Yarra Yering Underhill Shiraz 2004, Yarra Valley
Really aromatic mélange of sweet red fruits and savoury herbiness. Complex. The palate is soft, sweetly fruited and elegant with a lovely intensity and some meaty, spicy notes. Lovely. 93/100 (Ł35.25 Berry Bros & Rudd) 10/07

UK agent: Fields, Morris & Verdin