Clare
Valley Cabernet: top Cabernet Sauvignon from Australia
The
Clare Valley, South Australia
Generally speaking, Australian Cabernet Sauvignon
isn’t great. There are just three places that seem to be able to
grow it really well: Margaret River, Coonawarra and the subject of
this piece, the Clare Valley.
It’s a little surprising, because Cabernet is a
really adaptable grape variety that, unlike Pinot Noir, for example,
seems to grow well just about anywhere. It seems, though, that many
Aussie regions, such as the Barossa, are just a bit too hot for
Cabernet, and it goes all over-ripe, minty and a bit leafy green.
Coonawarra and Margaret River Cabernets rock, and these
regions have built their reputations on this grape. But Clare Cabernet
also rocks, although fewer people seem to write about it. I had the
chance to try a wide range of them, and came away pretty impressed.
Come to think of it, I’ve also been impressed by Clare Shiraz and
Clare Riesling. There’s something a bit special about this South
Australian wine region.
Grosset Gaia 2001
Powerful blackcurrant fruit, spice and mineral nose. Open,
expressive boldly fruited palate with a really nice spiciness adding
complexity to the blackcurrant fruit. 91/100
Jeanneret Cabernets 2003
Sweetly blackcurranty and chocolatey with a bit of spice. 88/100
Jim Barry Coverdrive Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Very deep colour. The nose shows blackcurrant fruit with
chocolatey richness and some herbiness. The palate is boldly fruited
and quite primary with nice structure. Very rich and full. 90/100
Kilkanoon Blocks Road Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
Very deep colour. Sweet, complex blackcurrant fruit nose with
lovely savoury complexity. The palate is intese, fruity and spicy. A
delicious wine in a full-on style. 93/100
Kilkanoon Killerman’s Run Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Very deep coloured. Sweet chocolatet black fruits nose is quite
complex. Primary, intense black fruits on the palate with some
minerality. Full on and lovely. 92/100
Knappstein Enterprise Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Very deep coloured. Creamy, ripe, black fruits nose with a minty
edge. The palate is powerful, savoury and spicy with some minty oak,
although overall this is a fruit-driven wine. 90/100
Koonowla Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
Some evolution to this wine, which shows herb-tinged black fruits.
Opening out. Spicy and full. 88/100
Koonowla Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
Evolved sweet caramelly edge to the nose. Spicy, sweet palate is
more advanced than you’d expect. 86/100
Koonowla Ringmaster Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Bright, sweet, herb and tar notes on the nose. Quite light and
expressive. A lighter style. 85/100
Mitchell’s Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
Expressive herby, leafy blackcurrant fruit nose. Herby edge to the
sweet fruit on the palate. A lighter, food-friendly style that’s
very nice. 88/100
Mount Horrocks Cabernet Merlot 2002
Sweet, expressive black fruits nose. Nice savoury, spicy minerally
edge to the palate. Nicely complex. Good stuff. 90/100
Neagles Rock Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Sweet and expressive with nice fruit. Not too sweet or heavy,
which is a good thing. 89/100
Olssens of Watervale Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
A bright, distinctly minty stype with lots of fruit. 86/100
Penna Lane Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Deep colour. Sweet, herby and minty with a spicy finish and lots
of fruit. 87/100
Sevenhill Cellars St Ignatius 2004
Deep coloured. Unusual sweet nose with a herby edge. Bright, bold,
fresh primary fruit on the palate. 86/100
Skillogalee Cabernets 2003
Quite a developed sweet red fruits nose. Sweet, spicy palate is
quite evolved. A nice food wine but slightly odd. 88/100
Tim Adams Cabernets 2003
Very deep colour. Sweet bright and fruity. There’s oak here, but
it’s in check. 88/100
Wakefield Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
(n.b. this is the UK market name: it’s Taylors in Australia)
Bold, sweet blackcurrant fruit nose. Fresh and very blackcurranty on
the palate. Nice purity here. 90/100
Wakefield Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Very deep colour. Complex, pure bold blackcurrant fruit dominates
here: a lovely expressive wine. Really good. 91/100
Wakefield St Andrews Cabernet Sauvignon 2001
Evolved, cedary, earthy spicy blackcurrant nose. Softening a bit
on the palate, this has great concentration and good complexity. Nice
purity here: this wine is ripe but balanced. 93/100
Wakefield St Andrews Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
Complex, expressive wine, showing earthy, minerally blackcurrant
fruit. Evolved and drinking very well now. Delicious. 92/100
see
also: report on a visit to the
Clare
Wines tasted 10/06
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these wines with wine-searcher.com
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