Domaine
de la Romanée Conti 2012 2012 was a difficult vintage in Burgundy, so how
did DRC do? Tasting the 2012s from this famous Burgundy domaine
It is always quite a privilege to be able to taste the new releases
of Domaine de la Romanée Conti (DRC), courtesy of Corney & Barrow,
their sole agents in the UK. The tasting takes place downstairs in
their head offices, not far from Tower Bridge, and doors open early
at 0830. There’s a steady trickle of wine trade people, most
arriving from Tower Hill tube, and so you are guaranteed to bump
into a few familiar faces on the way.
Once inside, people taste in rather hushed tones. Some sit down to
write their notes, sitting for minutes savouring their small but
adequate samples. People generally behave like people unused to
church behave in church, not quite sure whether or not it is bad
form to chat in anything other than a loud whisper. It’s the one day
you won’t find Neal Martin in his New Balance trainers. And Aubert
de Villaine hovers around in his gentle, almost ghost like manner.
He’s very approachable and willing to chat, but most people are a
bit scared to engage him.
So, how are the 2012s? Normally, I am blown away by these wines. I
wasn’t blown away today. I thought they were very good. Very good
indeed. But this was a difficult vintage, and to me the wines lacked
the sheer charm and otherworldly perfume that they normally offer at
this early stage. I am not saying these are bad wines, just that I
had high – perhaps unfairly high – expectations that weren’t fully
met. I’ll be really interested to hear others’ views on these
bottles.
THE WINES
Domaine de la Romanée
Conti Corton 2012 In 2008 the domaine took out a lease on three small plots from
Domaine Prince Florence de Mérode
totalling 2.3 hectares, which for now are all blended but when all
the vines are of sufficient age will be offered separately.
Chocolate and spice on the nose with some roast coffee, too, as well
as fine herbs. The palate is supple and fresh with raspberries and
red cherries, but it’s currently a little overwhelmed by new oak.
Nice detail. 92/100
Domaine de la Romanée
Conti
Échézeaux
2012 Fine, expressive red cherry and berry nose with subtle peppery
notes, as well as some roast coffee new oak. The palate has some
sweetness and lively, pure vital red cherry and plum fruit. Fresh
acidity and a bit of grippy structure. Pure and light on its feet
though the oak is a bit prominent. 93/100
Domaine de la Romanée
Conti Grands Échézeaux 2012 Beautiful floral perfume with fine spices, pepper, red cherries
and dried herbs. Nice freshness and purity with a bit of grippy
structure under the cherry and plum fruit. High acidity, a hint of
green, finishing firm. 94/100
Domaine de la Romanée
Conti Richebourg 2012 Fine and spicy with a hint of cocoa and roast coffee, as well as
red cherries and plums. The palate is supple, grippy and fresh with
some pepper notes alongside the fresh, sappy berry fruits. Grippy
and a bit awkward but with lots of potential. 94/100
Domaine de la Romanée
Conti Romanée-St-Vivant
2012 Perfumed, floral red cherry nose with a supple greenness.
There’s a bit of spiciness, too. Quite a haunting perfume, and I
like the green. The palate has a rounded, silky character with some
warm spiciness and good structure. Quite fresh and a bit of grip on
the finish. 94/100
Domaine de la Romanée
Conti La Tâche
2012 Very highly perfumed, in the distinctive way that La Tâche
always seems to manage: spicy, a bit green, a bit tarry, with red
cherries and plums. Distinctive palate with fresh red cherries, some
silky texture and a lovely supple personality. Combines structure
and finesse, with good acidity. 95/100
Domaine de la Romanée
Conti Romanée-Conti
2012 Fine, pure, aromatic red cherry nose. Supple, bright, silky
palate is quite lush with red cherries and plums. Nice focus and
purity with fine structure. This is really fresh and it’s a lovely,
expressive wine. 96/100
