wines of Philippe Pacalet
Impressively pure naturally made Burgundies
first bumped into Philippe Pacalet in Oregon, when he was pouring
his wines at the International Pinot Noir Celebration in July 2008.
I had a few chances to chat with him over those few days, and came
away impressed. Heís unconventional, forthright, and is quite
scientifically minded Ė indeed, he has studied yeast biology.
Since then Iíve tasted his wines on a few occasions, most recently
at the Caves de Pyrene Real Wine tasting in April 2010.
is the nephew of Marcel Lapierre, the Beaujolais wine grower who is
one of the leading figures in the natural wine movement. Through his
uncle, Pacalet also got to know Jules Chauvet, the wine scientist
who is revered among natural winemakers.
it will come as no surprise that Philippe uses no sulfur during his
winemaking, save for a bit at bottling. He doesn't own vineyards
himself (the cost of land for a newcomer such as Pacalet, who only
began his operation in 1999, is prohibitive), but rents plots with
Until 2007 he was squatting in three different cellars, but he
acquired a 19th century facility in the heart of Beaune from the De
Montille family, which is big enough to house his entire operation.
also had some interesting theories about why it is that grapevines
are so susceptible to disease (they have been vegetatively
propogated for so long it makes them weak) and what he would do
about it (GM vines, but only with the motivation of doing away with
any spraying). It's very interesting to meet a natural winemaker who
isn't bound by dogma (although I wouldn't want to suggest that most
Burgundies are quite distinctive, with lovely purity and elegance,
and thrilling aromatics. These arenít wines that grab you by
virtue of their size, but instead they seduce with freshness and
elegance. Pacalet is clearly a master of ťlevage.
Pacalet Gevrey Chambertin 2008
Lovely pure elegant cherry fruit here with beautiful freshness
and purity. There's some spicy structure, too. Fine and fresh, this
epitomizes the Pacalt style. 93/100
Pacalet Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Bel Air 2008
From calcareous soils, this is a very structured wine. Lovely
pure, elegant, fresh nose with red cherry and spice notes. The
palate is pure with spicy tannic structure, some sappiness and real
elegance. Needs time. 95/100
Pacalet Puligny Montrachet 2008
Fresh, bright, lemony and herby on the nose. The palate is
fresh, herby and taut with some nuttiness but pure fruit is the
focus here. 92/100
Pacalet Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru 2008
Very perfumed with lovely aromatics. Floral and herby. The
palate is sweetly fruited and elegant. Very pretty but quite
serious, with lovely acidity and nice structure. Amazing purity.
Pacalet Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St Jacques 2008
Pure with nice raspberry and cherry fruit. Lots of fruit here,
but still elegant with good structure. Nice purity of fruit. 93/100
Pacalet Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru 2008
Lovely precision and purity, again. Supple with nice tannins and
complex, minerally red cherry fruit, as well as a hint of pepper.
Real purity and elegance. 95/100
Pacalet Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru 2008
Slightly deeper colour than the other wines (which are quite
pale). Lovely sweet, pure cherry fruit nose is aromatic and floral.
The palate is pure and fine with firm but fine-grained tannins under
the sweet fruit. Quite tannic and firm, but still elegant. 94/100
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