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De Toren: a new 'cult' winery from South Africa By Gregory W. Sherwood During
a recent discussion with Jenny Ratcliffe, daughter of Norma Ratcliffe,
owner of the famous Stellenbosch winery Warwick Estate, talk turned to
her Cape Wine Master dissertation topic, the 'cult' and 'iconic'
wines of South Africa. At first thought, the subject seemed
self-explanatory. But as she started to rattle off more and more
winery names, it became clear that it's difficult to make a clear
distinction between these two categories. When does a cult wine become
iconic? Is there an established evolutionary curve? Does there have to
be a limited production and is pricing a relevant attribute? The
South African wine industry is by no means youthful, but the fine wine
and boutique revolution certainly is. But time is passing by at an
alarming rate. Wineries I was writing about a few years ago are now
drifting out of the 'cult' bracket and are on the cusp of icon status,
as another generation of start-up ventures pushes back the boundaries
of quality and innovation. Wineries like Veenwouden, Cordoba and
Morgenhof, which have only really been making fine wine of an
international standard since the early or mid 1990s, are now more
often than not listed as iconic producers. Since
the creation of a truly fine wine takes years of planning vineyards,
sourcing rootstock, preparing land and planting and cultivating vines,
no winery venture is actually a flash in the pan unless grapes are
bought on the spot market. So it only seems fitting that a winery like
the De Toren Private Cellar should reach such lofty heights of fame in
such a short time on the market. Producing only one wine with their
own fruit, named after the unique five varietal blend of Cabernet
Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot, Fusion V
is truly a labour of love where the different grapes are married to
form a truly unique South African blend (and increasingly unique
internationally as well). To
make a great wine from the very first vintage, you need enthusiasm and
commitment and owners Emil and Sonette den Dulk confirm that ‘Fusion
V marks a welcome return to the tried and tested traditional
wine-making methods of the French masters. With old worldly passion
and new worldly commitment to quality, De Toren Private Cellar is,
perfectly positioned to ensure consumer after-glow.’ With the first
vintage 1999 cracking the 90 point mark from both Parker and Wine
Spectator, and receiving open-ended praise from the local industry and
local consumers, the stage was nicely set for the creation of yet
another cult wine. And with its production limited to 1900 cases, a
feeding frenzy was inevitable. With
an artistic flair seldom associated with his trade, up and coming 27
year old South African winemaker Albie Kock refers to the vineyards of
De Toren as a painter’s palette. On a relatively small property of
26 hectares, of which 19.9 hectares are under vine, seven soil types
were identified and an impressive array of 13 cultivar clones were
introduced -- Merlot x 4, Cabernet Sauvignon x 4, Cabernet Franc x 2,
Petit Verdot x 2 and Malbec x 1. Designed to complement the terroir of
the farm, the grapes are cultivated to release as many different
flavours into the wine as possible. Even planting widths of the vines
were altered depending on the soil, cultivar and rootstock. The
farm’s low fertile soils are relatively cool and the water drainage
good. Add to that a constant breeze from the ocean, which is within
sight from the vineyards, and the farm is air-conditioned to
perfection in a predominantly warm growing region, all ensuring
optimal crop load. De
Toren’s USPs (Unique Selling Points) are numerous: Unique cultivars
(for SA); unbeatable terroir; closely monitored farming practices that
are environmentally friendly; wide array of cultivar clones; maximised
cultivar complexity; intelligent cellar management; and expert
blending – all the components required to make a truly great, world
class wine. ‘Just as one thinks of France as being a cultured an
elegant nation and South Africa as a more vibrant and physical
country, so stands this wine in relation to Bordeaux’ says Emil den
Dulk. ‘It’s far more muscular than anything the Medoc is likely to
produce and it still has the same cedar and black currant
characteristics – a brilliant blend of New World energy and old
world panache.’ And
so as an increasing number of producers move from youth into middle
age, one almost feels a sense of duty to further elevate and
differentiate the consistently true greats that we all know and love,
like the famous Meerlust Rubicon, Kanonkop Paul Sauer and Rust en
Vrede Estate Blend, in to another higher category like that of Classic
Icons. If De Toren Private Cellar can hang in there, they are sure to
join these names in due course. De Toren Fusion V 1999 De
Toren Fusion V 2000 An intensely aromatic wine. It
has a rich, fruitcake-like quality complemented by the toasted oak and
vanilla spice character of French and American oak. The palate is fine
and silky - with tannins as ripe and smooth as this, you can already
drink it merrily. The flavours are multiple and diverse with a
balanced melange of creamy red and black berry fruits, minerality and
floral and peppery spices. Great vital acidity, medium weight and
dense concentration of fruit in the mouth should repay 5 to 10 years
aging. De
Toren Fusion V 2001 (Released June 2003) Editor's note: by happy coincidence De Toren Fusion V 2000 is one of the wineanorak's wines of the month for November 2002 |
