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The wines of Domaine du Closel, Savennières, Loire

Château des Vaults, 49170 Savennières, France
Tel: +33 2 41 72 81 00 Fax: +33 2 41 72 86 00
E-mail: closel@savennieres-closel.com Website: www.savennieres-closel.com 
UK agent: Domaine du Closel UK, idepontbriand@savennieres-closel.com

Some pretty serious white wines being made here at this Savennières property. While the reds aren’t bad, it is the white Chenin Blanc grape that is the star performer. For those unfamiliar with Savennières, it is widely regarded to be the highest expression of Chenin Blanc in its dry incarnation. Unlike Vouvray, which can be either dry, medium-sweet or very sweet (depending on the vagaries of the vintage and the choice of the producer), Savennières is usually quite a dry white wine. It’s a bit of an acquired taste, but I find the complex, savoury flavours really appealing.

Closel farm organically, and they are certified by Terra Vitis. They also make and market the wines of Charles Beduneau, who produces a Coteaux du Layon and Anjou red and rosé.

Domaine du Closel La Jalousie 2001
Intense herbal, savoury nose with some ripe toasty elements, and something that reminds me of straw. The mouthfilling, savoury palate is quite rich textured and concentrated. Bone dry with a herby, straw-like edge. Very good/excellent 90/100

Domaine du Closel La Jalousie 2002
With this vintage the wine has been made in a slightly different style: malolactic has been allowed and the wines is aged on its lees with battonage. The goal is to produce something a little less austere. Open herby, toasty nose with a touch of cheese. Fresh, crisp and fruity on the palate with lemony acidity and a herbal character. Very good+ 89/100 (Gauntley wine stock this at £98 per case/12 ex vat)

Domaine du Closel Clos du Papillon 2001
From a butterfly shaped vineyard, this is a serious wine that will age well. Tight, complex herby nose is savoury and firm. The palate is taut and shows lots of herby, straw-like, waxy flavours. Lovely acid structure and minerality. Very good/excellent 91/100 (Berry Bros have this for £12.55 bottle)

Domaine du Closel Clos du Papillon 1999
Herbal, minerally complexity on the nose, which is savoury and intense. The palate is fresh, concentrated and intensely savoury with firm lemony acidity and mealy, herby fruit. Still tight. Very good/excellent 90/100

Domaine du Closel Les Callardières 2001
This one is from a vineyard patch with different soil: a sandy area with older vines. Some residual sugar is left in. A delicate herbiness with some mineral notes on the nose. The palate is rounded and fresh, seemingly less intense than the other wines. Fine acidity on the finish. Very good+ 87/100

Domaine du Closel Anjou Rouge 2000
This red is light, showing leafy, minerally fruit. Fresh and tasty. Very good+ 85/100

Domaine du Closel Anjou Villages Rouge 2001
There’s a smoky minerality to the black fruits nose. The relatively intense palate is savoury and firm. Very good+ 87/100

Domaine Charles Beduneau Coteaux du Layon Saint Lambert 2002
Lovely fresh herby spicy nose. Viscous but brilliantly poised palate is herby and spicy with lovely delicate complexity. Sweet. Very good/excellent 91/100

Domaine Charles Beduneau Coteaux du Layon Vieilles Vignes 2002
Lovely nose: delicate and herby. The palate is rich and thick textured with a floral elegance and good acidity. Clean, pure and sweet. Very good+ 88/100

see also: tasting notes of Loire wines

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