The
wines of Muxagat Vinhos, Douro, Portugal
Thought-provoking wines from Mateus Nicolau de Almeida
Website: www.muxagat.pt
These are the wines of Mateus Nicolau de
Almeida, who has an impressive Douro pedigree. His grandfather
Fernando was responsible for Barca Velha, and his father, João, is
in charge of Ramos Pinto.
Mateus has been making wines under this
label since 2003, but this is the first time I’ve come across
them. They are made from vineyards in the Douro Superior, which
include his own, but also other old plots at altitude.
‘When I finished my studies in France I
came to Douro with the Idea of my making my own wine that could
reflect my family tradition but also what I have learned in France
and other countries where I have been,’ says Mateus. ‘I started
in 2003 buying grapes from old vineyards and in 2005 I planted my
first vineyard where I practice organic farming and also try to
follow some biodynamic ideas.’
‘I consider my self as a "Douro
Vigneron" were I do everything from planting to bottling,’ he
says.
Mateus takes a thoughtful approach in the
winery, for example moving away from small new oak to larger
barrels, and the result is an impressive range of wines, with real
interest to them.
THE
WINES
Mux Tinto 2009 Douro, Portugal
13.5% alcohol. A blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca and Sousão.
Fresh, vivid and aromatic with black cherries, eart h, spice and a
hint of tar. The palate is fresh, supple and well defined. It’s
not over-ripe, and has a savoury, grippy edge to the fresh, ripe
black cherry fruit. Very well judged: there’s some substance here,
but also fresh, bright, vivid fruit. 92/100
Mux Tinto 2010 Douro, Portugal
Wonderfully fresh, pure black cherry, blackberry and plum fruit
here: great definition. Very fresh with some floral notes. Fine and
expressive. There’s a savoury, grippy, mineral dimension
underneath the fruit. A delicious expression of the Douro. 94/100
Mux Branco 2010 Douro, Portugal
13% alcohol. Slightly creamy, buttery edge to the bright citrus
and grapefruit characters. High acidity. Lively, pithy and mineral.
89/100
Mux Branco 2011 Douro, Portugal
13% alcohol. From old parcels with an average age of 30 years.
Mostly Rabigato, but also field blend of other varieties. Slightly
reduced mineral nose. Taut, lemony, pithy and citrusy with lovely
precision and purity. High acidity. Lean, but such a lovely pure
wine. 93/100
Muxagat Tinta Barocca 2011 Douro,
Portugal
13% alcohol. Very fresh, with vivid, pure cherry and berry
fruits on the nose. Bright, lively and vibrant with some sapid green
notes. Lovely pure fruit on the palate: sweet yet fresh and
immediate, with a bit of grippy structure. Joyful and pure. 90/100
Muxagat Os Xistos Altos Branco 2010
Douro, Portugal
Aromatic, taut and fresh with spice and mineral notes as well as
citrus and toast on the nose. The palate is precise and taut with
subtle creamy notes as well as toast, spice and citrus. Very fine
with good acidity and subtle oak influence. Should age well. 93/100
See
also:
Duorum,
Douro
Lavradores
de Feitoria
Dirk
Niepoort and his wines
Wines
tasted 08/12
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