Single-vintage tawnies from a master of this style
Colheita Ports are relatively rare, but
they are worth looking out for. They are vintage-dated tawny Ports.
A recap. The two distinctive styles of
Port are ruby and tawny. The term ‘ruby’ encompasses Ports that
have been aged for a short time in wood before bottling, and so they
retain their dark colour and fruit-dominated flavour profile. This
category includes vintage, single-quinta, late-bottled
vintage and simple ruby styles.
Tawny Ports are aged for a long time in
wood. They are therefore quite different in taste, with nutty,
raisiny complexity, and less fruit. They are also lighter in colour.
A completely different sort of drink, but equally compelling when
Most tawnies are sold by their average
age (10 year, 20 year and so on), and are the result of blending.
Colheitas are tawnies from a single year, and are less common.
This small vertical involved some of the
Colheitas from Niepoort, a small port house who are masters of this
Niepoort Colhieta 1998
Taut and spicy with raisiny complexity. A warm, dense yet fresh Port
with great balance and already showing good complexity, as well as
fine acidity. 93/100
Niepoort Colheita 1995
Warm, mellow, spicy and dense with great acidity, a lightness to
the flavour, and some warmth. Really long finish. 93/100
Niepoort Colheita 1991
Warm and spicy with lovely tangerine and citrus notes. Fresh
with lovely acidity and spicy complexity. A lovely Port. 94/100
Niepoort Colheita 1984
Tight and a little earthy with spicy complexity. Fine, with
savoury, spicy notes. Fresh and taut: a little turned in on itself.
Niepoort Colheita 1979
Super-complex, spicy and fine with mellow warmth but also some
freshness. Thrilling complexity. 95/100
Wines tasted 03/11
Niepoort and his remarkable wines: a retrospective
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