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The wines of Podere Luigi Einaudi, Piedmont, Italy

B. ta Gombe 31, 12063 Dogliani, Italy
Tel: +39 0173 70191

An old estate, Einaudi have a reputation for producing serious Dolcetto, a grape that is often left in the shadow of the celebrated Nebbiolo (the Barolo grape) and not taken too seriously. Both the Dolcettos tasted were superb examples; very different in style to Barolo, of course, but thoroughly delicious. The Barolos both showed good typicity, with the single vineyard Cannubi having the edge over the regular bottling. These are serious wines that need cellaring, and show elegance, balance and complexity as opposed to power. Prices for these wines are quite fair, considering the cost of their peers and the quality on offer.

Barolo 1997
Cherry red colour with a brick red rim, this has a complex nose of herbs, leather, smoke and undergrowth. It's dense, dry and tannic on the palate. Needs time and will undoubtedly improve; a serious but austere wine. Very good+, with the potential to develop (Lea & Sandeman 24.95)

Barolo 'Cannubi' 1997
This is from a single vineyard (Cannubi), where Einaudi have recently acquired a block of vines, and is aged in barriques. It shows notes of leather, old wood and undergrowth on the nose. It has a lovely, complex spicy/savoury palate with firm tannins. One for the future; it would be a shame to drink this now. Very good/excellent, with the potential to improve (Lea & Sandeman 33.95)

Dolcetto di Dogliani 'Vigna Tecc' 1999
A single vineyard wine from the Dogliani commune made only from the oldest vines, this is fermented and matured in stainless steel tanks. It's a beautiful deep purple colour and displays ripe, sweet, black cherry fruit on the nose. The palate is soft, sweet and fruity, and shows great concentration. Gorgeous. Very good/excellent (Lea & Sandeman 10.95)

Dolcetto di Dogliani 'i Filari' 1999
From the best rows of vines, and aged in big oak barrels; only 5000 bottles made. This deep coloured wine shows lovely sweet black cherry fruit on the nose with some herby, spicy notes in the background. The palate shows sweet fruit and reasonably firm tannins, with huge concentration. Seductive. Very good/excellent (Lea & Sandeman 13.50)

Tasted May 2001 at Decanter Rising Stars Encounter
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