The wines of Jean-François Ganevat   
Serious wines from France's Jura region
 

Based in the  hamlet of La Combe, Jean-François is making some incredible Jura wines from recently-certified (Demeter) biodynamic vineyards. In 1998 he returned to the family domaine after a period spent working in Burgundy, with Jean-Marc Morey. These wines are naturally made, with the reds receiving no sulfur dioxide additions, and the whites only a tiny amount. These are true terroir wines, and they are thrilling – especially the remarkable Savagnin. Not tasted here is a very well regarded Pinot Noir.

Jean-François Ganevat Savagnin Cuvée Prestige 2004
This is a multifaceted chameleon of a wine, and I really like it. It has a remarkably lively salty, minerally, tangy nose that's complex and sherried, but very fresh. The palate is lemony, herby, tangy  and intense. So fresh and bright with some appley, nutty depth. Warm, long, rich finish. 95/100

Jean-François Ganevat Chardonnay 'Grusse en Billat' 2007
Fresh, pure, taut and intense with some herby, lemony notes. Fresh and minerally. Real power and purity here with good acidity. 92/100

Jean-François Ganevat Trousseau Plein Sud 2008
Subtly spicy cherry fruit nose. The palate is fresh and quite elegant with nice acidity and lovely tannins. Light and cherryish, but structured. 91/100

Jean-François Ganevat Poulsard Vieilles Vignes 'L'Enfant Terrible' 2008
Orange/red colour. Sweet, warm, spicy nose with some roasted notes. The palate is fresh and pure with some cherry fruit backed up by complex minerally notes and high acidity. An elegant wine. 92/100

UK agent: Les Caves de Pyrene 
Wines tasted: 04/10

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Older report, from May 2007:

The Jura is one of those wine regions I can’t help but be drawn to. The mountain scenery; the fact that the wines are a bit different; the unfashionable nature of some of the wine styles; the sense of place the wines possess – all these factors contribute to its appeal.

Domaine Ganevat is one of the leading producers. They have 85 year old vines and are in conversion to biodynamics. The wines are great, and they are affordable. The labels have a sort of minimalist, old fashioned chic. What more could you want?

These wines are available in the UK from Les Caves de Pyrene (www.lescaves.co.uk)

Domaine Ganevat Trousseau 2004 Côtes du Jura 
A very supple, bright style of red wine. Fresh bright cherry and berry fruit nose with a bit of greenness. The palate is elegant with some fruit sweetness and a bit of tannic structure. 90/100

Domaine Ganevat Pinot Noir 2004 Côtes du Jura
Light coloured. Smooth, bright fruit here with a hint of greenness and some cherry and red berry fruit. Light and expressive; a really attractive Pinot. 89/100

Domaine Ganevat Chardonnay Grands Teppes 2002 Côtes du Jura
Rich, full bold nose is ripe, sweet, nutty and spicy. The palate is sweetly fruited with a lovely spicy, minerally character. Long, complex and lovely. 92/100

Domaine Ganevat Chardonnay Florine 2004 Côtes du Jura
Fresh, bright and full on the nose. The palate is nutty and fresh with pure, rounded fruit that has a lemony edge. Long, complex finish. 90/100

Wines tasted 05/07

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