The
wonderful world of Grüner Veltliner
Grüner Veltliner, or Gru-Vee, as it has been dubbed, is
the latest craze. It’s Austria’s own white variety: although lots
of attention has focused on Austrian Riesling, there’s actually an
awful lot more Gru-Vee planted (by a factor of 10). Now it’s
rightfully regarded as the centrepiece of Austria’s wine industry.
If you want to look cool this summer, then you should really be
sipping Gru-Vee.
So if Austrian
whites, and Grüner Veltliners in particular, are so good, how come we
haven’t seen many of them here in the UK? The main reason they’ve
not been better known abroad is because the domestic market greedily
snaps up most of the good stuff, and keeps the prices high across the
board. Indeed, Austria doesn’t actually make that much wine. But the
word is out, and Grüner Veltliner is gaining more of the attention
that it deserves. With its food friendliness, versatility and in many
cases a capacity to gain complexity with age, Grüner looks set to
gain more friends.
Much of the hype surrounding Grüner
Veltliner comes from a series of blind tastings (there have been three
so far) put on by a Swiss aficionado of Austrian wines, of which the
best publicized was held in the UK at the invitation of MWs Jancis
Robinson and Tim Atkin. In this shoot-out, Austria’s leading Grüner
Veltliners and Chardonnays were pitched against top Chardonnays from
around the world, including some very, very stylish white Burgundies.
Remarkably, the panel of illustrious judges voted the Austrian wines
into seven of the top 10 places. Grüner Veltliner was the clear
winner.
Grüner has a variety of expressions. Cropped at high
yields it can make a pleasant but light quaffing white, but if growers
take a little more care it is capable of making complex, full
flavoured, spicy whites often with a distinctive white flower and
cracked pepper edge to them. The examples that I tried below (at a
tasting put on by the Austrian wine marketing board) aren’t
necessarily the best; they represent a spectrum of styles, and many of
the most famous names are missing. However, the quality was
consistently good across the board. Only a couple of these wines have
seen new oak: generally, Gru-Vee doesn’t need new oak to enhance its
character, and if barriques are used they have to be used with care.
93 |
Jurtschitsch-Sonnhof Grüner Veltliner Spiegel Reserve
2002
Lovely vivid green herb and pepper nose with lots of
intensity. The palate is concentrated ripe and full, with
lovely intensity and a herby, peppery finish. A bold example with lots of character. Very good/excellent 93/100 |
92 |
Bründlmayer Grüner Veltliner Alte Reben 2003 Kamptal
Rich peppery nose with a subtle herby lift. Quite an
aromatic palate which is intense, rich and spicy with some
herby complexity. A full flavoured style. Very good/excellent
92/100 |
91 |
Stadt Krems Grüner Veltliner Wachtberg 2003 Kremstal
From 45 year old vines, this has a spicy, minerally,
peppery nose. The palate is concentrated and rounded with
lovely rich fruit. Nicely textured with good length. Very
good/excellent 91/100 |
90 |
Dinstlgut Loiben Grüner Veltliner Loibenberg 2003
Wachau
Very forward peppery nose with a nicely green edge to it.
The palate is crisp but full flavoured with nice crispiness
and a spicy finish. Very interesting. Very good/excellent
90/100
|
|
Tegernseerhof Grüner Veltliner Bergdistel 2003 Wachau
Pure, fine minerally nose with a subtle herbiness in the
background. Good concentration on the palate with lovely fruit
and a layered texture. Very good/excellent 90/100
|
89 |
Domaine Wachau Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Kellenberg 2003
Wachau
[This is the winery that used to be known as the Freie
Weingärtner Wachau.] Fresh, bright minerally nose with some
liminess. Some richness on the palate texture, with a subtle
peppery character. Youthful and appealing. Very good+ 89/100 |
|
Kurt Angerer Grüner Veltliner Eichenstaude 2003 Kamptal
Quite a rich nose with some oak evident behind the herby,
peppery fruit. Rich, full palate with lots of flavour. Quite a
rich style. Very good+ 89/100 |
88 |
Schwarz Grüner Veltliner Reserve 2003 Weinviertel
Quite rich, almost smoky nose is fresh and peppery. The
palate is rich and full flavoured with delicate but pronounced
fruity flavours (sounds confusing – what I mean is that
there is quite a bit of flavour, but the actual flavours are
subtle ones). A good food match. Very good+ 88/100 |
87 |
Schlosskellerei Halbturn Schloss Halbturn Grüner
Veltliner 2002
Rich, toasty bready nose reeks of new oak. The palate is
bold and oaky, although the oaking is quite classy. It’s a
bit overdone IMO. Very good+ 87/100 |
|
Höpler Grüner Veltliner 2003 Neusiedlersee, Burgenland
Lovely spicy palate with good density. Fresh with nice
acidity. Very good+ 87/100 |
86 |
Fuchs-Wein Grüner Veltliner 2003 Südsteiermark
Fresh, fruity, peppery nose. The palate is nice and
fruity. Tasty and simple. Very good+ 86/100 |
85 |
Lenz Moser Prestige Grüner Veltliner 2003 Austria
Bright, fresh clean style with some herbiness and a bit of
spice. Very good+ 85/100 |
|
Hafner Grüner Veltliner 2003 Neusiedlersee, Burgenland
Fresh fruity and with good acidity. Balanced and
appealing. Very good+ 85/100 |
Buying Grüner
Veltliner
It's hard to find in the UK, but the situation is getting better.
Newcomer Nick Dobson wines has a fine selection and is aiming to
become the leading stockist in the UK. He's almost there. Noel Young
has championed the wines of Austria and has a very good selection.
Raeburn also stock some interesting Austrian stuff, as do Seckfords
(although last time I looked their list seemed to be a little depleted
of Austrian wines). M&S have recently listed five Austrian wines. Otherwise it's a question of hunting
around for the odd bottle here and there at your local independent.
(See my directory of UK wine merchants.)
See also: section on Austrian wines
wines
tasted May 2004
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