wines of COS, Sicily
Superb natural wines from Vittoria
Giusto Occhipinti, one of the
founders and owners of COS
are an exciting natural winery in the Vittoria region of Sicily.
Located in the south east corner of the island, Vittoria is the home
to the only Sicilian DOCG, Cerasuaolo di Vittoria, which brings
together the Nero d’Avola and Frappato varieties to make a really
elegant, fresh, expressive red.
began life when three school friends from Vittoria, Giambattista
Cilia, Giusto Occhipinti and Pinuccia Strano, decided to start
playing with grapes from their parents’ vineyards in 1980. Things
grew, and after an ill-advised flirtation with new barriques, they
realized that their terroirs were giving them something special, and
that it the grapes needed to be handled naturally in the cellar.
Now, as well as using mainly
older barrels, they are also famous for the fact that they use 400
litre clay amphorae, sunk into the ground, for some of their red and
white wine fermentations. They make a range of wines, and pretty
much everything here is of interest.
COS Ramí Bianco 2008
12.5% alcohol. A blend of Grecanico and Insolia fermented in
stainless steel. Powerful, nutty, intense nose with some
herb-tinged, rich nutty pear fruit. The palate is rounded and
complex with lovely balance. Satisfying and quite rich. 90/100 (£10.95)
COS Pithos Bianco 2008
100% Grecanico, aged in amphora. Yellow/orange coloure. Complex,
taut, nutty, spicy palate with savoury, mineral notes. Powerful and
broad with dried apricot, spice and nut flavours. 93/100 (£13.95)
COS Frappato 2008
Fermented in stainless steel, this is a varietal Frappato. Pale
colour. Beautifully perfumed with fresh cherry fruit and herbs. The
palate is sappy and elegant with bright fruit and lovely acidity. So
fresh and pure. 92/100 (£10.95)
COS Nero di Lupo 1008
This is a varietal Nero d’Avola aged in stainless steel.
Sweet, ripe and cherryish with a bit of warmth and spice on the
nose. There’s some earthy depth on the palate and nice spiciness.
Elegant and warm. 91/100 (£11.80)
COS Cerasuolo di Vittoria
Warm spicy nose is quite intense. The palate shows elegant fresh
cherry fruit with spicy, earthy depth. So elegant and warm, but
pure, also. Delicious and mineral. 92/100 (£12.95)
COS Pithos Rosso 2008
This is the same blend as the Cerasuolo, but it’s fermented in
amphorae. Superbly elegant, subtly meaty cherry fruit nose. Floral.
The palate is profound: elegant pure and mineral with lovely spice
and earth notes. Some complexity, and a bit of tannic structure.
COS Syre 2005
100% Nero d’Avola, from low yielding old vines. Warm, rich
tawny Port-style nose. The palate is soft, complex and mature with
spice and earth notes. Quite elegant. Soft, long and broad with
amazing depth. 92/100
COS Maldafrica 2007
Cabernet and Merlot with a splash of Nero. Sweet, slightly
volatile nose with liqueur-like cherry fruit. The palate is fruity,
sweet and pure with cherries and a tannic, spicy edge. 88/100
Wines tasted 04/10
Planeta, one of Sicily's top producers
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