wines of Gagliole, Chianti Classico, Italy
Gagliole, an estate in Castellina in Chianti, is owned
by husband and wife team Monika and Thomas Bär. He’s a Swiss
banker and lawyer, while she’s a gallery manager; they were
seduced by the Tuscan countryside and decided to buy the property,
which they did in 1990.
The whole estate coverss 30 hectares; of these, 8 are
under vine. Altitude is 500 metres, which is quite high by Chianti
standards and helps keep freshness in the wines.
Winemaking is in the hands of consultant winemaker
Stefano Chioccioli (www.stefanochioccioli.it),
who boasts an exhaustive and impressive lists of clients in Italy,
Switzerland and France. Wines are fermented in 40 hl oak vats before
being transferred to barriques for maturation.
The wines are very impressive, and there’s quite a
contrast between the easy-to-appreciate fruitiness of the Rubiolo
and the more structured power of the two vintages of the IGT.
Gagliole Rubiolo 2007 Chianti Classico
13.5% alcohol. Deep coloured. Beautifully smooth, pure raspberry
and blackberry fruit nose, which is incredibly lush but avoids being
jammy. The palate shows sleek, fresh red berry and blackberry fruit
with lovely purity and a subtle spicy edge. This is a very modern,
accessible style of Chianti. 89/100
Gagliole Colli della Toscana Centrale 2005 IGT
14% alcohol. This is a blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet
Sauvignon that spends 16 months in barriques. Deep red/black in
colour. Brooding dark spicy, tarry nose with plum and cherry notes.
The palate is savoury and concentrated with blackcurrant and plum
fruit, as well as some spiciness and a hint of (attractive)
bitterness from the structure. There’s lovely purity and intensity
here, with focused dark fruits, spicy depths and good acidity.
Distinctly Tuscan, this has a long future ahead of it. 93/100
Gagliole Colli della Toscana Centrale 2006 IGT
Savoury, intense blackberry and dark cherry nose with a strong
tannic, spicy edge. It is ripe and fruit-driven, but there’s some
intense spiciness and dark gravelly, tarry notes too. The palate
shows intense dark fruit character with plum and damson bitterness,
firm tannins and good acidity. This is a serious traditional-styled
Chianti (even though it is IGT) with a dash of well integrated oak.
It needs time. 92/100
Wines tasted 02/09
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