The
wines of Fattoria San Lorenzo, Ancona, Italy
Remarkable Verdicchios and perfumed reds from Italy's Marche
From Ancona in Italy’s Marche, come
these remarkable wines. Natalino Crognaletti (above) runs
this long-established family business and looks after some 35
hectares of vines, both owned and rented, in the communes of Montecarotto,
Ostra, Ostra Vetere and Corinaldo. Vineyards are worked
biodynamically and organically, and winemaking is minimal
intervention with lots of time on yeast lees for the whites.
These wines are thrillingly good. I was
especially taken by the hauntingly perfumed Vigna Paradiso, but the
main reason to come here is for the single-vineyard Verdicchios,
with the Marche Bianco showing real character and poise.
UK agent is Les Caves de Pyrene
San Lorenzo Verdiccion dei Castelli de
Jesi ‘Gino’ 2012 Marche, Italy
Complex, lively and nutty with pear and apple fruit. Textured,
rich but expressive with a lovely mineral finish. 89/100
San Lorenzo Verdicchio dei Castelli de
Jesi Superiore ‘Vigna delle Oche’ 2010 Marche, Italy
Really distinctive textured pear fruit with lovely richness and
some nutty notes. Long mineral finish. 91/100
San Lorenzo Verdicchio dei Castelli de
Jesi Classico Riserva ‘Vigna delle Oche’ 2008 Marche, Italy
Deep colour. Complex nutty, appley nose with some waxy, herby
notes. The palate is bold, rich and powerful, appley and intense,
and has a rich texture with some waxy notes. 93/100
San Lorenzo Marche Bianco 2002 Marche,
Italy
Yellow colour. Lovely complex, savoury, taut, nutty palate. Real
complexity here. Smooth but edgy with notes of pear, peach, wax and
herbs. 93/100
San Lorenzo Marche Bianco 1998 Marche,
Italy
Full yellow colour. Lovely complex nutty, matchstick edge to the
rich textured pear fruit. Dense, lively, mineral and fresh, with
lots of complexity. Brilliant wine. 95/100
San Lorenzo Rosso Conero ‘Artu’
2007 Marche, Italy
Ripe, full and fresh with nice texture, and a grippy, mineral
finish to the smooth black fruits. Showing a bit of savoury
evolution. 90/100
San Lorenzo Lacrima di Morra d’Alba
‘Vigna Paradiso’ 2007 Marche, Italy
Very deep colour. Wonderful perfumed, aromatic nose of floral
(violet) cherry fruit. The palate is fruity, pure and expressive
showing black cherries, blackberry, spice, mineral and some tar.
Enthralling. 95/100
San Lorenzo Montepulciano ‘Vigneto
delle Solleone’ 2005 Marche, Italy
Faded colour. Minty, nutty edge to the cherry fruit nose. The
palate has an earthy, mineral quality with faded but smooth textured
fruit. 91/100
See
also:
Visiting
Chianti Classico (series)
Josko
Gravner and his wines
Wines
tasted 05/12
Find these wines with wine-searcher.com
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