Jaboulet is one of the most well known names in the Rhône,
producing a wide array of wines. Many are inexpensive negociant
bottles, but there are a handful of flagship wines produced from
specified vineyard sites. The following notes are from a tasting at
London merchant La Vigneronne in November 2001. As you might expect
from a large producer, quality is solid even if some of the wines lack
a bit of excitement. Jewel in the crown is Hermitage La Chapelle,
which has an impressive track record, and enjoys iconic status. You'll
notice from the notes that I was a little disappointed with
how La Chapelle 1999 showed here. Even taking into account the fact
that this is a wine destined for long ageing, and not designed to show
well in its youth, it wasn't at all
impressive. Tasted blind, without that magical label, I would probably
have been even harder on it. It was outperformed here by Les
Jumelles, Jaboulet's Côte Rôtie bottling, a nice effort that would
be worth seeking out if it was a few quid cheaper. At £25,
though, it's in direct competition with growers such as Ogier, Barge,
Mouton and Jamet, who do better. It would be interesting
to try most of these wines again in three years, to see whether
they've developed some more interest. And I'll be looking to try La
Chapelle 1999 again soon, to check that this wasn't a rogue bottle.
Prices are those of La Vigneronne.
(Update: September 2003 - it seems my conclusions on La Chapelle
1999 were fair. Other reports have highlighted disappointing
performance by this wine in the 1998, 1999 and 2000 vintages. I've
tried the 2000 subsequently, and it was a poor effort, but then this
was a tricky vintage. There's no explanation for 1999, which was a
superb vintage generally in this region)
Hermitage Blanc Chevalier de Stérimberg 1999
A mid-yellow colour. Light floral nose with some rich, fat peachy and
honey notes overlaying some subtle minerality. The palate is
attractive and fat-textured, showing soft, lush peachy notes and just
enough acidity to provide balance. There's a tiny bit of hollowness on
the mid palate. It’s an interesting wine, but not my favourite
style. Very good+ (£25)
Côtes du Rhône Parallèle 45 1999
Bright coloured. Some vigorous swirling coaxes out some earthy cherry
fruit with a pleasant savoury edge. Juicy rounded fruit on the palate
with a savoury, slightly mineral edge. Tasty if a little simple.
Good/very good (£5)
Crozes Hermitage Les Jalets 1999
This is one of the better Les Jalets I've had. Very attractive primary
raspberry fruit on the nose with some savoury depth. Palate shows a
good concentration of juicy fruit with good acidity and just a touch
of liquoricey, meaty complexity. Needs a bit of time. Very good+
(£6.50 for a limited period, normally £7.99)
Crozes Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert 1999
Normally a real step up from Les Jalets, this time it's
disappointingly closed. The slightly muted nose shows pure raspberry
fruit with a bit of herbiness. Quite rich and concentrated palate is
still very youthful with primary fruit character and firm tannins.
Good acidity. Richer-textured than Les Jalets this may yet develop
into something interesting, but unyielding now. Very good (£11.67)
St Joseph La Grande Pompée 1999
Again, lots of rich primary raspberry fruit on the nose with some
underlying richness. Palate is rich, ripe and fruity with good acid.
There's a bit of tannin here and also some meaty hints. Very clean and
youthful, give this one some time to open out. Very good (£9.80)
Côte Rôtie Les Jumelles 1999
A very nice wine; not quite up to the standards of the leading
producers in this appellation (e.g. Jamet, Ogier, Gilles Barges), but
still quite impressive. As well as bright fruit on the nose, there's
some attractive, authentic meaty, green-olive character. Very pure and
focused. Lovely savoury palate with more green olive and spice
character. Medium bodied with firm tannins and high acidity. Very
good/excellent (£25)
Hermitage La Chapelle 1999
Not giving much away on the nose: a touch of caramel, some herbs and a
bit of raspberry fruit. The palate is quite closed with some wood
influence evident: notes of caramel and spice, with some tannin also.
It's not a particularly big wine – I’d describe it as medium
bodied. Spicy finish. Disappointing at the moment. You'd have to hope
that a wine like this will evolve some real complexity with time:
after all, La Chapelle has quite a track record for this. Very good
(£48.95)
Muscat de Baumes-de-Venise Reserve Pérsonelle 1999
Lovely lifted perfumed nose with a bright floral edge. This sweet wine
is full of interest and not at all cloying. Although the palate is
rich-textured, sweet and grapey, there's a lightness to it, with good
acidity and a sugary, caramelized finish. Impressive stuff. Very
good/excellent (£14.95)