Among the leading negociant firms in Burgundy, Jadot currently
occupies pole position. As well as buying in grapes, they own some 50
ha of Pinot Noir vineyards, 20 ha of Chardonnay and also the large 27
ha Château des Jacques estate in Beaujolais. This tasting included 10
relatively inexpensive wines, and this represents just a snapshot of
their output. From this small sample it's apparent that Jadot are
pretty consistent, producing appealing wines that have the benefit of
wide distribution. The wines seem to be made in a clean, modern style.
I was especially impressed with the two Moulin à Vents from Château
des Jacques, which were tasty, full-flavoured wines. If there's any
criticism, it is that the prices are a bit on the steep side. The
Pouilly Fuissé, for example, retails at £13 (Tesco stocks this,
among others). It's a nice enough wine, but I can think of plenty of
ways of having more wine fun for £13 than buying a bottle of this.
Burgundy isn't cheap, admittedly, but these prices are putting Jadot
head-to-head with some of the smaller growers, whose wines may be less
'safe' and perhaps more interesting.
Chablis 1998
Nice nutty nose with some honeyed notes. A rich, full flavoured
style with some sweet butterscotch notes. Very good.
Pouilly Fuissé 1998
Lean, lemony/appley nose with some mineral notes. Palate is quite rich
and full, with ripe fruit. Very good
Saint Véran 1999
Bright lemony nose leads to a full flavoured, citrussy palate. Clean
and full, this is a wine made in an approachable modern style. Very
good
Clos de Loyse 1999 Bourgogne
(A Beaujolais Blanc) Lots of toasty new oak on the nose; enticing and
rich. Lovely rich nutty palate: almost new world in style. Oaky but
good. Very good+
Mâcon-Lugny 1999
Pronounced lemony nose with a herby edge. Crisp and distinctive, with
a full flavoured palate. Very good
Puligny Montrachet 1999
Restrained nose is quite classy, with some nutty, toasty notes. Rich,
full flavoured palate shows good balance and well judged oak. Very
good+
Beaujolais Villages 2000
Beautifully forward raspberry and bubblegum nose. Rich, vibrant palate
with some spice and a bright character. Just what you want from
inexpensive Beaujolais. Very good.
Mâcon 1998
Reds from the Mâcon are relatively rare. The attractive herby nose shows gamey strawberry fruit and caramel.
There are ripe red fruits and caramel notes on the palate. Good/very
good
Château des Jacques 1999 Moulin à Vent
This cru Beaujolais is quite a classy effort. Deep purple colour,
showing rich ripe fruit on the nose. The palate is dominated by
pungent red berry fruits. It's a big, savoury rendition of Gamay. Very
good+
Château des Jacques Clos du Grand Carquelin 1998, Moulin à Vent
A deep purple colour, there's a nice pungency to the richly fruited
nose. The palate is classy, rich and spicy, with firm tannins and a
lovely savoury character. Another 'big' Gamay. Very good/excellent