Jermann, Friuli, Italy
Currently making some of Italy's most exciting whites
Jermann has a reputation for making Italy’s some of Italy's best
white wines. It's a deserved reputation, in my view.
range of wines, which come from the predominantly mountainous
Friuli-Venezia Giulia region in the northeast corner of Italy, is
consistently superb. Taking over the family business in the 1970s,
Jermann has raised the quality and grown the range. He now has a
sizeable 130 hectares of vines,
and two wineries, at Villanova and Ruttars.
impresses me most about these wines is the purity and depth of
flavour coupled with huge mineral extract, all perfectly poised and
in balance. They are quite expensive, but for this sort of quality
they’re competitively priced.
A blend of Ribolla Gialla with a little bit of Riesling and
Tocai Friulano. Full yellow colour. Slightly reduced minerally nose
leads to a powerful, grapey, herby palate. Nutty and intense but
very fresh with some citrussy notes. A powerful, complex wine.
Pinot Grigio 2008
Full yellow colour. Rich, bold, intense, nutty and grapey with
lovely textured fruit. Notes of melon and herbs; full and fleshy
with lovely depth. 92/100
Pinot Bianco 2008
Fresh, focused and citrussy with lovely purity to the intense,
concentrated fruit. Very pure with lemon, herbs and subtle
nuttiness, as well as smooth texture. 93/100
Vintage Tunina 2006
A blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia
and Picolit. Deep coloured. Rich, toasty, figgy and quite powerful.
Textured, nutty and bold with great concentration and smoothness. A
beautiful wine. 94/100
Capo Martino 2006
Malvasia, Tocai, Picolit and Ribolla. Deep yellow gold colour.
Complex, nutty and toasty. An intense wine with lovely powerful
herb, nut, melon and grapefruit notes. Some crystalline fruits.
Textured, long, powerful and balanced. 94/100
next notes are from March 2002, and a tasting held at La
Vigneronne wine shop.
Riesling 2000 IGT Delle Venezie
Silvio’s son (no, he’s not called Afix; this is a name taken
from parts of his two first names). Quite a beguiling, delicate
floral/fruity nose. It’s quite ‘pretty’, with good density.
The palate is rich and rounded showing great balance between the
fruit, acidity and the touch of residual sugar. A complex, full
flavoured wine, this is mineralic and slightly spicy. Perfectly
poised, and brilliant stuff. Excellent (£14.95)
Bianco 2000 IGT Venezia Giulia
but full nose: with rich bready and slightly nutty notes, this is
complex and aromatic. Nicely rounded palate is rich and nutty. Very
fresh with good acidity and full flavoured, slightly lemony fruit.
Quite delicious. Very good/excellent (£14.95)
Grigio 2000 IGT Venezia Giulia
spicy nose with a hint of the savouriness/meatiness often found in
Alsace Pinot Gris. The palate is full and rich, nutty and savoury
with some varietal character. Good acidity. Currently quite youthful
and fresh, this has the mineral extract to age, I suspect. Very
2000 IGT Venezia Giulia
meaty nose with a smoky, bacon fat edge. I’d have guessed this as
a Pinot Gris tasted blind. Quite complex. Full flavoured but light
textured palate with good acidity and nutty, savoury fruit. Some
minerality, too. A delicious, savoury interpretation of Chardonnay.
Very good/excellent (£13)
2000 IGT Venezia Giulia
A blend of
Ribolla, Riesling and Malvasia. Very minerally, savoury nose is
tight and complex, with a slightly creamy edge. Concentrated,
rich-textured mineralic palate, with good acidity and finishes dry.
Nicely structured and will no doubt develop. Superb stuff: not showy
but very elegant. Excellent (£13)
Tunina 2000 IGT Venezia Giulia
A blend of
Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Malvasia, Picolit and Ribolla, with the
grapes actually vinified together. There’s a fresh lift to the
stunningly complex mineralic, spicy nose. In fact, it’s almost
floral. Quite a fruity palate but with good acidity and some
minerality providing a nice foil. Complex stuff. Very good/excellent
Martino 2000 IGT Venezia Giulia
single-vineyard blend of Pinot
Blanco, Pinot Grigio and Tokay, aged for 10 months in Slovenian oak.
A remarkable opulent nose with lots of toasty, nutty vanillin oak.
Very rich and exotic. Rich creamy, buttery palate but with good
acidity. Very savoury, this is quite a striking, unusual wine,
although not one that will be to everyone’s taste. Very
Dreams, now it is just wine! 1999 IGT Venezia Giulia
Forget the barmy
name. When someone makes wines as good as these, we can forgive them
a few quirks. Quite a restrained nutty nose that isn’t giving much
away except for a creamy, bready edge. Rich, nutty savoury palate
with good acid structure. Tight at the moment, but with good balance
and well integrated oak this may well age nicely. Very
Angel on the Moonlight, Pinot Nero 2000 IGT Venezia Giulia
name. This wine is a vivid red colour. Quite a striking cherry fruit
nose with a herbaceous edge; leafy and intense. Quite a lean palate,
but with good acidity. Interesting stuff, but it seems to be
/flirting with unripeness. Perhaps an effective food wine. Very good
tasted March 2002
new Douro (series)
tasted as indicated
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