The
wines of Rainer
Lingenfelder
Lingenfelder Estate, Hauptstrasse 27, 67229 Grosskarlbach, Germany
Tel.: +49 6238 – 754 Fax: +49 6238 - 1096
Email: wine@lingenfelder.com
Website: www.lingenfelder.com
Rainer Lingenfelder is an immensely likeable but rather
eccentric winemaker, making some interesting wines from his base
in Grosskarlbach,
which is in the Pfalz, the warmest and driest region of Germany.
He’s proud of the fact that his family tree records 13
generations of Lingenfelders, back to 1520, all of whom have
been winegrowers in this region, but he’s quick to distance
himself from the image of an aristocratic wine dynasty. ‘Our
story is not one of nobility and grand estates but one of
hard-working farmers who worked the land and made the wine’,
he emphasizes. Rainer sees himself as a custodian of this
history and manages his vineyards in an ecologically responsible
manner. Altogether there are 15 hectares of vineyards, planted
mostly with the grape varieties Riesling, Scheurebe and Spätburgunder
(Pinot Noir). According to a brief biography of him on the
informative Lingenfelder website, ‘he
views his role as steward rather than as king.’ (see: www.lingenfelder.com/our_estate/
bio_rkl.htm.) |

Rainer Lingenfelder (the chap on the right in a black jumper)
with his bird mobile outside an Oddbins store: he visited 240
Oddbins stores to promote his 'Creatures' range and as a way of
saying thanks to Oddbins. What a dude! |
Rainer achieved commercial success in the UK with his
‘bird’ Riesling, a fresh zippy white offering a lot of wine for
its £4.99 price point, and which was sold in Oddbins. Its continued
success led to the recent creation of the Creatures series of wines,
exclusively for Oddbins. They are affordable, characterful wines, each
of which is known by the name of a creature. In an endearingly
eccentric move, Rainer decided to visit every Oddbins store in the UK
to help promote these. He explains, ‘When I decided to create an exclusive series of wines for our
friends at Oddbins that focus on the clear, crisp, vibrant flavours of
the vineyard, I realised that I wanted to say thank you to all the
members of the Oddbins family that made the original Bird Label such a
huge success in the UK. As I thought about the various ways of saying
"Thank You", it dawned on me that the best way was simply to
do it in person – at every store – where I could give the Oddbins
gang a chance to taste and discuss the new wines,’ says
Lingenfelder. ‘Oddbins has grown a lot since I did my last tour for
the launch of the Bird Label Riesling, and with over 240 stores to
visit, I knew I would have my work cut out for me. To make it all
possible, I created the Bird Mobile – a state of the art, satellite
navigated, almost all terrain, vineyard camouflaged, ambassador for a
return to the simple pleasures of having fun with wine.’ With an
attitude like that, he deserves to succeed. I like the wines a great
deal, and they’re brilliantly packaged.
The
‘Creature’ series
Lingenfelder
Pinot Grigio ‘Owl label’ 2003 Pfalz
Inviting nose is honeyed with slightly floral fruit. Rich but well
defined. The palate is rounded with very pretty, peachy, spicy fruit
flavours. Quite far but finished dry: this would work very well with
Asian food. A very impressive effort with plenty of personality but
good overall balance and freshness. Very good+ 88/100
Lingenfelder 'Fox label' Dornfelder
2002 Pfalz
Bright colour. Soft, sweet cherry fruit nose with a liqueur-like
edge: very approachable. The palate shows a good concentration of
seamless, smooth cherry and berry fruit. Low tannin. Very fruity and
easy to drink but while it’s not a big structured wine it does have
a hint of seriousness. Very good+ 88/100
Lingenfelder Gewürztraminer 2003
Pfalz
Quite a deep yellow colour. Heady, rich nose of sweet, herby,
musky grapey fruit. The palate is rich and concentrated with dense,
herby fruit and hints of honey. Very full with some sweetness on the
finish, but this may be from the fruit. Thought provoking. Very good+
88/100
Lingenfelder 'Bird label' Riesling
2002 Pfalz
Fresh, bright, fruity and almost aromatic, with a limey edge, but
also a rounded, nicely textured palate. The overall impression is dry
but I’m guessing there’s a reasonable amount of residual sugar
here. A clean, pure, fairly expressive wine that’s good value.
Perfect for casual sipping. Very good+ 87/100
Lingenfelder 'Fish label' Riesling
2003 Mosel
Rich, ripe limey nose with some freshness. The palate is rich and
ripe with a relatively thick texture, some sweetness and a bright
spicy finish. Not complex, but a nice Riesling with good balance
between the sweetness and the spicy finish. Medium sweet. Very good+
86/100
(These are all available from Oddbins,
priced from £4.99 to £6.99. There’s also a Morio Muscat, not
tried here)
Regular
wines
Lingenfelder Grosskarlbacher
Osterberg Dornfelder 2000 Pfalz
Sweet fruit on the nose: nice weight and very accessible. The
palate shows approachable, savoury edged sweet berry fruit. Soft and
full. Very good+ 86/100
Lingenfelder Riesling Spätlese
Trocken Freinheimer Goldberg 2002 Pfalz
Concentrated and intense with a herby edge to the limey fruit and
high acidity. Very fresh and intense. Very good+ 89/100
Lingenfelder Scheurebe Kabinett
Halbtrocken Freinheimer Musikantenbuckel 2002 Pfalz
Quite rich and herby with savoury herby fruit and good acidity.
Unusual but nice in a savoury style. Very good+ 86/100
Lingenfelder Riesling Spätlese
Grosskarlbacher Osterberg 2002 Pfalz
Taut and herby with a limey edge to the nose. The palate shows a
good concentration with high acid and savoury lemony fruit. Full
flavoured. Very good/excellent 90/100
UK agent: Charles Taylor
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