Spotlight
on Madeira
d'Oliveras
A high quality producer with an
impressive range of old vintages. The commercial three-year old wines
are nice enough, but the real fun is to be had with the older wines.
d’Oliveras Three year old
Madeira Seco
Light colour. Fresh, lemony edge to the nose. Some lemony,
caramelly notes on the palate with an appealing open, nutty finish.
Dry. Very good+ 85/100
d’Oliveras Three year old
Sweet Madeira
Sweet, raisiny, caramelly nose. Viscous simple and sweet on the
palate with a toffeeish character. Good/very good 79/100
d’Oliveras 1971 Sercial
Quite light orange–brown colour. Caramelly, spicy nose with an
acid lift. The palate is quite rich and dry with nice, nutty, spicy
complexity and good acidity. Very pleasant. Very good+ 89/100
d’Oliveras Reserva Verdelho
1966
Pale brown with a yellow tint. Quite a complex spicy, lemony nose
with marmaladey hints. Good concentration on the rich palate which is
medium-sweet with good acidity. Nice length and a really impressive
acidic finish framing things well. Very good/excellent 90/100
d’Oliveras Boal 1978
Deep orange–brown. Rich, spicy caramelly nose. The palate is
complex and rich textured. It shows spicy herb-tinged caramel and
raisin notes with some burnt sugar and good acidity. Very
good/excellent 90/100
d’Oliveras Malvasia
Colheita 1987
Intense, sweet, herby nose is rich and caramelly. The palate is
sweet and rich with nice raising, caramelly complexity, together with
a herby edge. Very good+ 88/100
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