The wines of Guiseppe Mascarello, Piedmont, Italy

A small family firm run by Mauro Mascarello. These are lovely traditional Barolos – strikingly individual wines. Rather than try to make deep-coloured, oaky wines in a sort of international style, Mauro allows Nebbiolo to do what only Nebbiolo can, producing pale coloured yet intensely structured wines with a complex sweet and sour character that is quite beguiling. Guide retail prices per bottle are quoted - good Barolo doesn't come cheap! Also tasted here was one of Mascarello's Barberas.

Mascarello Barolo ‘Villero’ 1998
Pale coloured. Striking spicy nose with some herby character. Full, concentrated palate is quite challenging with a leathery complexity and high acidity. Brilliant but quite challenging. Very good+ (£30)

Mascarello Barolo ‘Villero’ 1997
Pale coloured. Complex herby, leathery, spicy nose. The palate is youthful and quite challenging with savoury spicy tannins. Good concentration. Very good+ (£35)

Mascarello Barolo ‘Monprivato’ 1998
Pale coloured. Complex herby nose displays notes of leather, undergrowth and spice. Leathery herby palate has firm tannic structure. Traditional and very appealing. Very good/excellent (£38.50)

Mascarello Barolo ‘Monprivato’ 1997
Pale coloured. Remarkably sweet herbal nose is seamless. The palate is complex and herbal with sweet rich fruit but in a delicate savoury style. Firm tannins and high acidity on the finish. A striking wine. Very good/excellent (£45)  

Mascarello Barbera d'Alba 'Scudetto' 2000
Spicy, herby and slightly medicinal, this is a savoury wine with high acidity. Unusual and quite challenging. Very good+ (£14)

UK availability: Winetraders (UK), tel 01865 251851   

For a more recent (May 2004) review of these wines click here

See also: tasting notes of Italian wines

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