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The wines of Nicodemi, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, Italy

Three wines from Nicodemi, a family owned winery in the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo appellation, and more specifically from a new DOCG called Colline Termane. They have 38 hectares of vineyards which are certified organic. The approach here is one of quality: the vineyards are being reworked to move them from the old system that favoured quantity, and new plantings have also been made. Consultant winemaker is the well-known Paolo Caciorgna.

It’s encouraging to see interesting wines being made from what are often considered to be ‘lesser’ regions – ones that in the past haven’t been associated with serious wine. I liked these wines quite a bit, and the neromoro, despite its semi-spoofy modern gloss, is an impressive wine. These wines are available in the UK from Cadman Fine Wines (www.cadmanfinewines.co.uk)

Nicodemi Trebbiano d’Abruzzo 2006
An interesting dry white with some herby, waxy, appley fruit. It’s well balanced and quite savoury with a bit of nutty depth, but the dominant theme is the appley fruit. Gently aromatic and quite refined, this is a useful sort of wine. 87/100 (£8.49 Cadman Fine Wines)

Nicodemi Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2005
Fresh, rather savoury spicy red fruits nose shows some leather and earth complexity. There’s a bright dusty sort of character here that I often find in Italian reds, and it’s quite attractive. The palate shows spicy cherry and plum fruit with some earthy tannins and fresh acidity. A well proportioned savoury, food-friendly red of real appeal. 88/100 (£8.99 Cadman Fine Wines)

Nicodemi ‘neromoro’ Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva 2004 
This is a striking wine that initially seems to be rather modern and showy, but then reveals some layered complexity. Deep coloured, it has a complex fruity nose of liqueur-like raspberries with a warm herbal, spicy, dried-meat edge. The palate shows some oak, as well as dense, ripe fruit, and there’s a rather nervy, spicy structure that stops it from being too smooth or suave. Indeed, there’s a restrained wildness about this wine, although it’s well hidden under the modern gloss. Quite serious, still, and it will be fascinating to see how it develops. 92/100 (£21.99 Cadman Fine Wines)

Wines tasted 06/08  
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