The wines
of Nicodemi,
Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, Italy
Three
wines from Nicodemi, a family owned winery in the Montepulciano
d’Abruzzo appellation, and more specifically from a new DOCG called
Colline Termane. They have 38 hectares of vineyards which are
certified organic. The approach here is one of quality: the vineyards
are being reworked to move them from the old system that favoured
quantity, and new plantings have also been made. Consultant winemaker is
the well-known Paolo Caciorgna.
It’s
encouraging to see interesting wines being made from what are often
considered to be ‘lesser’ regions – ones that in the past
haven’t been associated with serious wine. I liked these wines quite
a bit, and the neromoro, despite its semi-spoofy modern gloss, is
an impressive wine. These wines are available in the UK from Cadman
Fine Wines (www.cadmanfinewines.co.uk)
Nicodemi
Trebbiano d’Abruzzo 2006
An interesting dry white with some herby, waxy, appley fruit.
It’s well balanced and quite savoury with a bit of nutty depth, but
the dominant theme is the appley fruit. Gently aromatic and quite
refined, this is a useful sort of wine. 87/100 (£8.49 Cadman Fine
Wines)
Nicodemi
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2005
Fresh, rather savoury spicy red fruits nose shows some leather and
earth complexity. There’s a bright dusty sort of character here that
I often find in Italian reds, and it’s quite attractive. The palate
shows spicy cherry and plum fruit with some earthy tannins and fresh
acidity. A well proportioned savoury, food-friendly red of real
appeal. 88/100 (£8.99 Cadman Fine Wines)
Nicodemi
‘neromoro’ Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva 2004
This is a striking wine that initially seems to be rather modern
and showy, but then reveals some layered complexity. Deep coloured, it
has a complex fruity nose of liqueur-like raspberries with a warm
herbal, spicy, dried-meat edge. The palate shows some oak, as well as
dense, ripe fruit, and there’s a rather nervy, spicy structure that
stops it from being too smooth or suave. Indeed, there’s a
restrained wildness about this wine, although it’s well hidden under
the modern gloss. Quite serious, still, and it will be fascinating to
see how it develops. 92/100 (£21.99 Cadman Fine Wines)
Wines tasted 06/08
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these wines with wine-searcher.com
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