Oddbins
'Selection': French
classics under the Oddbins brand
Oddbins (www.oddbins.com)
have just released
a range of wines going under the name of 'Oddbins Selection'. They're
labelled simply with the names of six of France's most famous
appellations: Bordeaux, Chateauneuf du Pape, Bourgogne, Sancerre,
Chablis and Pouilly Fume. So here we have an example of appellations
as brands – how have they done, and does this concept work in
practice?
Let's start with a
philosophical point. I have a problem with the use of appellations as
brands, and it goes something like this. If you are going to use the
name of the place on the label of a wine, then therefs no point if it
doesnft actually taste of that place. Letfs put that another way:
whatfs the point of a place name on a label if a wine tastes like it
could have come from anywhere?
The French appellation
controllée system is a brilliant idea for those wines which have a
sense of place about them. For example, if Crozes-Hermitage tastes
like Crozes-Hermitage to the extent you could pick it blind, or if
there's a flavour difference in a typical Puligny Montrachet that sets
it apart from Meursault. But for more commercial wines, what's the
point of labelling by appellation if the wine simply tastes of the
grape variety it is made of?
When appellations are used
as brands, everyone who is entitled to use the appellation name on
their bottles has a share in the equity of that brand, and stands to
benefit. It's like a bank account which has 300 users, all of whom are
able to take out the same amount from this account. But who pays into
this account? The contributions are voluntary: all 300 are allowed to
decide how much they wish to contribute. This doesn't sound like a
terribly bright idea to me, unless you are dealing with people who
display exemplary altruistic behaviour.
It's the growers who do
good work and make high quality wines who build the equity of the
brand. Growers who perform poorly still get to benefit, and thus the
subtle commercial pressure is for growers to cut corners. As long as
their wine is still good enough to pass the test that decides whether
it can use the name (usually a low hurdle; the tests are toothless),
and is made observing the production criteria (as an example, the
specification on yields is in practice meaningless because growers can
crop much higher than permitted yields and just not pick beyond the
maximum), they get a share in the brand equity.
So, with Oddbins selection,
we have appellations as brands, but in this case backed up by the
Oddbins name as a guarantee of quality. We're being asked to trust
Oddbins to have sourced some good examples of these appellations,
which are trading on their origins to woo consumers. Have they
succeeded?
In short, no. But let's try
to be a bit more constructive. The Chablis isnft a bad wine: itfs
fruity and accessible, but it doesn't really taste like Chablis
should. It lacks personality. The Sancerre is similarly
personality-free – again, not a bad wine, but not a terribly good
one. The Pouilly-Fume is a little edgier, but it's still no more than
averagely good. The reds don't fare much better. The Bourgogne is
quite fresh and fruity; drinkable without being more-ish. The
Chateauneuf is a disappointment. If I'd tried it blind, I'd have
placed it in the new world, with its jammy fruit. It's superficially
tasty, but with its forced flavours the appeal is short-lived. It
doesn't taste much like any good Chateauneuf I've had before, lacking
sense of place which is surely the point of these wines. The Bordeaux,
probably the best of the bunch, in part because its low asking price
doesn't raise expectations too high, shows very approachable, ripe,
forward blackcurrant and blackberry fruit that don't make me think of
Bordeaux. Letfs face it, this is an improvement on most Bordeaux at
this price in that it's fruity and tasty, but this 'improvement' comes
at the price of a loss of identity.
A further comment on
closure choice. All six of the wines were sealed with Nomacorcs,
extruded synthetic closures. Two are sealed with short (38 mm)
Nomacorcs; the other four are sealed with even shorter (and presumably
even cheaper) versions which look incredibly low budget. This is
creating entirely the wrong impression from the start. Therefs nothing
wrong about good quality plastic corks in the right context. This is
the wrong context.
Oddbins Selection
Chablis 2006 (£9.99)
Fresh fruity nose.
Palate is bright and open with a bit of straw character, some acid and
just a hint of minerality. Inoffensive, but lacks real character or
quality, despite its drinkability. Tamed Chablis. Very good 83/100
Oddbins Selection
Bourgogne Rouge 2006 (£6.99)
Quite deep coloured.
Shy nose. Palate shows juicy, quite vibrant dark cherry and raspberry
fruit with a bit of spicy tannin. Quite juicy with a nice fruity
quality. It's a nice quaffer, if a bit extracted. Very good 84/100
Oddbins Selection
Châteauneuf du Pape 2006 (£12.99)
Deep coloured.
Robust, fruity forward nose with rich red fruits and a bit of
damson/plum character. The palate shows vibrant juicy fruit that's a
bit jammy and extracted. Very rich and sweet: a commercial style. Very
good 84/100
Oddbins Selection
Sancerre 2006 (£9.99)
Grassy and fresh on
the nose. Quite crisp and aromatic. The palate is bright and fruity
with a subtly minerally edge. Simple and fruity. Very good 83/100
Oddbins Selection
Pouilly Fumé 2006 (£8.99)
Attractive fresh,
bright grassy nose. There's some green freshness on the palate which
has some presence. Quite focused with a lemony finish. Attractive.
Very good+ 86/100
Oddbins Selection
Bordeaux 2006 (£5.99)
Dark, sweet,
chocolatey blackcurrant fruit nose with a subtle minerally, gravelly
edge. The palate has sweet, almost jammy blackcurrant and blackberry
fruit. Mouthfilling and ripe, this tastes quite sweet. With the jammy
fruit this would be hard to spot as a Bordeaux. Very accessible: is
there some residual sugar here? Very good 84/100
Wines tasted 06/07
Wines available from www.oddbins.com
User
comment:
From
Rob Malcolm, Summertown Wine Cafe, Oxford
Wine
Communism
I agree on your comments re the appellation controllee system. I
call it wine communism. If we were all wired to be
altruistic then communism is surely a better system than capitalism.
Sadly we're not. Mankind spent the whole of the 20th Century
giving communism a fair go. It failed because we found out that
basic greed and fear override any altruistic notions we can construct.
The absurdities of communism with technocrats trying to centrally plan
outcomes and employing more and more complex red tape to try and
control everything finally became too much. The competing system
of capitalism built upon the solid, if extremely unpleasant, foundations
of greed and fear is now the almost universal 'operating
system' for us to get on with things. But not if you're a
European wine maker. The appellation controllee system is wine
communism: it's a throw-back to a time when communism was a bona fide
competing system with capitalism. It needs to go - the whole
lot. We have trade mark law and consumer labelling laws that
allow both the winery and the consumer perfectly adequate
protection of their respective rights and needs. Perhaps the new
French President is brave enough to take on the technocrats?
Oddbins Pricing
As a fellow retailer of wine I am intrigued by the diverse price
points they have chosen for the range:
Ch 9 Popes £13
Chablis and Sancerre £10
Pouilly Fume £9
Red Burgundy £7 (is it just me that finds "Bourgogne" an
unpleasant name?)
Red Bordeaux £6
How did they come up with those prices? It looks suspiciously
like cost plus a percentage mark up.
What are customers meant to think of the different prices? It
seems to be a very confusing signal about quality to the customer.
What would you think if you were the President of the Bordeaux AOC?
Ouch.
Rob Malcolm
Summertown Wine Cafe
38 South Parade
Oxford
OX2 7JN
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