Portugal’s wine industry seems to be evolving steadily. Modern
winemaking techniques are helping committed wine growers fulfil the
potential of the diverse terroirs and grape varieties that Portugal
enjoys, and each year new wines are being released that are pushing
back the quality boundaries.
A decade ago, you’d have had a task finding more than half a
dozen fine table wines from Portugal that could really compete on the
international stage. But at a recent trade tasting of Portuguese wines
I tasted 37 which I rated as very good/excellent – or which, in
terms of points out of 100, broke the magic 90 barrier.
Some caveats. First, this was a selected sample: I spent the
majority of my time tasting what I thought were likely to be the best
wines. Be in no doubt, the majority of Portugal’s wine production is
pretty ordinary (as with most countries), and there is still too much
poor winemaking and viticulture. There are also some notable
ommissions from this list – I have had other Douro, Dão, Bairrada
and Alentejo wines recently which have broken the 90 barrier, and
which no doubt would have done so if I had tasted them here.
Having said this, I’m confident that the wines listed below are
all fairly serious and would do very well against a peer group of fine
wines rated 90 or above from any other wine growing area.
Score/100 |
wine and
tasting note |
White wines |
90 |
Quinta dos Roques Encruzado 2001 Dão
Lovely limey, herby complexity on the nose with some savoury
nutty depth. The complex intense nutty palate is very
expressive. Lovely. Very good/excellent |
90 |
Niepoort Redoma Branco 2001 Douro
Lovely herby, nutty intensity to the nose with some bright
lemony fruit, and a hint of vanilla. The palate is broad, nutty
and slightly toasty with a spicy edge. Great depth of fruit. A
touch oaky at the moment, but lovely. Very good/excellent 90
(aside: the Reserva Branco is even better, and would no doubt
rate in the mid 90s…) |
90 |
Quinta do Ameal Escolha 2001 Minho
Lovely fresh nose with subtle herby complexity. Lovely
concentration on the palate. Quite structured and mineralic,
with the oak hardly obvious. High acidity. Very good/excellent |
90 |
Quinta do Ameal Loureiro 2002 Minho
Expressive, fresh herby nose with some floral notes. Delicate
yet concentrated palate is very expressive with crisp pure fruit
and high acidity. Very good/excellent |
Red wines |
95 |
Niepoort Batuta 2000 Douro
From ancient vines at Quinta do Carril. Modern, intense spicy
nose is quite tight with some roast coffee notes. The palate is
hugely concentrated yet still quite elegant with firm spicy
tannins and well structured berry and black fruits. Needs time
to fulfil its huge potential. Excellent (UK agent Raymond
Reynolds) |
95 |
Pintas 2001 Douro
Maiden vintage for this wine, made by Jorges Borges and Sandra
Tavares (husband and wife team, winemakers with Dirk Niepoort
and Christiano Van Zeller, respectively). Very deep, almost
opaque colour. The nose is brooding with intense chocolatey-rich
black fruits and some herbal complexity. The lovely concentrated
palate displays lush fruit, ripe tannins and some complexity is
already evident. A huge wine with lots of elegance and ripeness.
Excellent (not yet available in the UK) |
95 |
Quinta do Vale D. Maria 2001 Douro
Very striking open nose, displaying ripe liquorice-tinged
raspberry/blackcurrant fruit. The palate is midweight, ripe and
elegant with lovely concentration and balance and nicely
integrated wood. This is a delightfully elegant wine – very
expressive and a real step up from the 2000, I was surprised by
just how good this was. (Blended cask sample.) Excellent (UK
agent Corney & Barrow) |
93 |
Pera Manca Tinto 1995 Alentejo
This is one of Portugal’s most famous and sought-after wines.
Astonishing nose: it’s very herby, with complex cheesy,
southern spice notes. The palate is warm and complex, displaying
lots of savoury, spicy elements. Good concentration. Very
traditional and unusual, but quite brilliant. Very
good/excellent (UK agent Raymond Reynolds) |
93 |
Niepoort Redoma Tinto 2000 Douro
70 year old vines and miserly yields of 15 hl/ha result in a
classy red wine that will reward patience. Classy nose of
chocolatey, herby, spicy berry fruit is clean, modern and
correct, and less wild than previous vintages. Well integrated
new oak. Good concentration on the rich spicy palate with firm
tannins and good acidity. Very good/excellent (UK agent Raymond
Reynolds) |
93 |
Chryseia 2000 Douro
Using grapes from four quintas in the Cima Corgo, this is the
Symington’s flagship table wine. Intense, rich, chocolatey,
liquoricey edge to the ripe berry and black fruit nose, with
some sweet edged fruit. The palate shows a huge concentration of
chocolatey, herb-tinged fruit. It’s lush, rich and bold, with
some assertive yet soft tannins under the fruit. Very nice. Very
good/excellent 93 (UK agent John E. Fells) |
93 |
Quinta do Vale Meão 2000 Douro
This modern-styled wine is highly seductive. It displays an
intense, lush, tarry nose of spicy black fruits. The palate is
lush, concentrated and liquoricey with a pronounced herbal edge.
Boldly flavoured with lots of character, its easy to see why
this has rapidly become such a sought-after wine – this is
only the second vintage. Very good/excellent (UK agent Raymond
Reynolds) |
92 |
Cartuxa Tinto 1998 Alentejo
Faded colour. Lovely expressive, warm, herby/spicy nose with
leathery complexity. The palate is savoury and chewy with
earthy, spicy, herby richness. Very traditional but lovely and
expressive. Very good/excellent
|
92 |
Quinta da Portela da Vilariça Touriga Nacional 2000 Douro
Ripe herby berry and black fruit nose with a savoury, spicy
edge. Interesting: brooding and intense. Firmly structured spicy
palate with lots of rich herby fruit and good acidity. Rich but
not overblown, and showing great concentration. Very
good/excellent |
91 |
Chocapalha 2001 Estremadura
A blend of Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz that spends 15
months in oak, 70% of which is new. Very deep coloured.
Appealing nose is spicy and herby with some tarry richness. The
palate is quite firm, rich and spicy, still showing quite a bit
of spicy oak with good tannic structure. Lovely expressive wine
with lots of character. Very good/excellent |
91 |
Niepoort Quinta do Passadouro 1999 Douro
Spicy, dusty nose with ripe berry fruit. Good concentration on
the chewy, chunky palate with firm tannins and good acidity. Its
structure reminds me a little bit of a very good Chianti
Classico.Great concentration – a lovely wine. Very
good/excellent |
91 |
Quinta das Maias ‘Black Label’ 2000 Dão
First vintage of this new superpremium wine, which is made from
old vines – predominantly Jaen. It reminds me of Grand Cru
Burgundy. Lovely elegant spicy savoury palate with fine grained
tannins good acidity and nice concentration. Not a powerful wine
but an expressive one, with lots of potential. Very
good/excellent |
91 |
Quinta dos Roques Touriga Nacional 2000 Dão
Lovely juicy blackcurrant fruit nose with some herby complexity.
The palate is rich and juicy with high acidity and herby, tarry
richness. Youthful but lots of potential. Very good/excellent |
91 |
Dão Sul Quinta Sá de Baixo Grande Eschola 2000, Douro
Very deep purple/black colour. Serious savoury, spicy nose
showing spicy-edged ripe fruit. The palate is concentrated and
rich with assertive, firm spicy structure and well judged oak.
Very bold, intense and concentrated. Very good/excellent |
91 |
Dão Sul Quinta da Cabriz Dão Superior 2000, Dão
There’s lovely herby complexity to the nose which is very
expressive with a slightly meaty edge. The palate shows a lovely
herby elegance. Nicely weighted structure, good acidity. Savoury
and well balanced. Very good/excellent 91 |
91 |
Esporão Garrafeira 2000 Alentejo
Very forward, intense nose displaying ripe, spicy, liquoricey-edged
fruit. The palate shows a great concentration of of spicy, tarry
berry fruit. Bold and rich, this is unashamedly new world in
style. Very good/excellent |
91 |
Quinta de Roriz Reserva 2000 Douro
Attractive intense, liquoricey herby fruit on the nose with a
spicy edge. The palate is rich and full, with rich, chocolatey,
herby berry and black fruits. Some spicy oak evident. Great
concentration – quite a structured, serious wine. Very
good/excellent |
91 |
Chryseia 2001 Douro
Deep coloured. Expressive herby open nose showing ripe berry
fruit. The palate is open and rich with herby, liquoricey fruit.
Despite the concentration this is an open, expressive wine that
is drinking well now, although it has the structure to age.
Plenty of character. Very good/excellent |
91 |
Duas Quintas Reserva 2000 Douro
Full, intense, herby nose with a spicy, slightly tarry edge.
Very appealing. Good concentration on the palate. Intense, herby
edged tarry berry fruit. Nicely savoury with some good
structure. Very good/excellent |
91 |
Duas Quintas Reserva Especial 2000 Douro
Chewy, savoury, intense and brooding with firm tannic structure
and a nice herbal complexity. Very rich and bold but with some
elegance. Very good/excellent |
90 |
Duas Quintas Reserva 1997 Douro
Appealing, open, spicy herby nose has a nice minerally edge.
Expressive. Structured, savoury palate with a leafy, herby edge.
Very appealing. Very good/excellent |
90 |
Esporão Reserva 2000 Alentejo
Rich liquorice-tinged herby fruit on the nose. Rich, boldly
fruited palate with a spicy edge and lots of character. A rich,
bold wine with upfront appeal. Very good/excellent |
90 |
José Maria da Fonseca Periquita Classico 1995 Terras do
Sado
The complexy herby, earthy, leathery nose is quite evolved. The
traditional-styled palate is appealing, rounded and quite
complex. Not a fruit driven wine. Very good/excellent |
90 |
José Maria da Fonseca José de Sousa Mayor 1998 Alentejo
40% is femented and matured in clay pots, a traditional Alentejo
technique. Intense, spicy, caramelly nose is quite rich and
full. The palate is chewy and rich with an appealing herby edge
to the fruit. Nicely made in a traditional style. Very
good/excellent |
90 |
Conde d’Ervideira Reserva 2001 Alentejo
Very rich, open nose – almost lush but with a fresh herbal
edge to the berry fruit. The chewy, herbal edged palate is very
expressive and individual. Lovely stuff. Very good/excellent |
90 |
Quinta Fonte do Ouro Touriga Nacional 2000 Dão
Spicy, tarry edge to rich berry and black fruit nose. The palate
displays vivid, juicy berry fruit with tarry, smoky complexity
and good acidity. Expressive. Classic Dão in a modern mould.
Very good/excellent |
90 |
Casa Cadaval Trincadeira Preta 2000 Ribatejo
This wine displays delicious savoury, chewy berry fruit with a
spicy streak and good balancing acidity. Good structure and some
complexity. Very good/excellent |
90 |
Sogrape Herdade do Peso Aragonês 2000 Alentejo
Intense, lush forward nose of spicy, herby chocolatey fruit.
The palate is concentrated and lush with ripe, tarry, herby
fruit that has hints of sweet spices and vanilla. Very intense
and moreish. Very good/excellent |
90 |
Sogrape Quinta dos Carvalhais Touriga Nacional 2000 Dâo
Minty edge to the refined herbal fruit on the nose. Elegant
savoury fruit on the palate. Not big but well structured and
showing great balance. Ageworthy. Very good/excellent |
90 |
Dão Sul Quinta das Tecedeiras 2001 Douro
Deep coloured. Quite rich, liquoricey, herby edge to the
nose, with a touch of chocolatey richness. The palate is chewy,
rich and concentrated with some firm tannins. Very
good/excellent |
90 |
Quinta do Vallado 2001 Douro
No Reserva was made in 2001, so this is the top wine this
year. Rich, intense nose with a spicy, chocolatey edge. Lovely
balance on the palate, which is firm, chunky and shows
herb-tinged berry and black fruits with some spicy oak. Good
concentration and quite elegant. Very good/excellent |
90 |
Quinta da Portela da Vilariça 2000 Douro
From 15 year old vineyards in the upper Douro. Savoury,
spicy nose with a roast coffee edge. Lovely structured, intense
palate with a chocolatey edge to the firm berry fruit. Quite a
structured wine with lots of character. Very good/excellent |
90 |
Quinta do Côtto Grande Eschola 2000, Douro
Côtto’s Grande Eschola is one of the famous table wines
of the Douro, and made its debut in the 1970s. Only made in the
best years, this is the first Grande Eschola since 1995. The
intense, rich, tarry nose shows some spicy, roast coffee notes.
The palate is full and concentrated with good acidity and plenty
of spicy oak. This is a bold, structured wine for long-term
cellaring. Very good/excellent |