The
wines of Ronco
del Gelso, Isonzo del Friuli, Italy
The Friuli DOC of Isonzo (northeast
Italy) is on the up, with an influx of young, ambitious growers fresh
from viticultural college determined to exploit the quality potential
of their vineyards. One such grower is Giorgio Badin, at his family
estate Ronco del Gelso (which translates ‘Hill of the Mulberry
tree’). He’s steadily building a reputation for his wines, and as
this tasting demonstrated, it’s a reputation that is richly
deserved. I was very excited by these profound wines, as my notes
probably show.
The
vineyards occupy some 15 ha near Cormons on the right bank of the
Isonzo river. The vineyard area continues to expand as finances allow,
and in 2001 a new winery was built. Within Isonzo the area around
Giorgio’s vineyards is recognized as a special one, and from 2002 it
will have its own micro-DOC, Gesimis. The climate here is ideal for
quality grape growing with cold air from Central Europe meeting warm
Adriatic winds, creating temperature variations favouring slow even
ripening. The soil is also ideal, with deep calcareous beds of
well-drained gravel known locally as ‘ponka’. In bond prices are
given in brackets after each note. UK
agent is Ockse Wines (tel 020 8691 2846; e-mail rjc@ocksewines.net).
Pinot Grigio Sot Lis Rivis 2000
Isonzo del Friuli
From a single-vineyard, Sot Lis Rivis, this is barrel-fermented in
new oak. The nose displays a sophisticated creamy, toasty edge with a
distinctive herbiness. The rich, herby nutty palate has a full texture
and good concentration. The oak is well integrated. Very
good/excellent (£69.00 per 12)
Tocai Friulano 2000 Isonzo del
Friuli
Deep yellow colour. Distinctly herby, straw tinged nose leads to a
rich, herby palate with a lovely nutty texture. Pure, clean fruit
flavours here in a restrained style. Very good/excellent (£59.50 per
12)
Sauvignon 2000 Isonzo del Friuli
Distinctively savoury and herby nose with a pronounced grassiness.
Rich textured palate is wonderfully herby and intense with good
minerality. Lovely and well above the norm for this grape. Very
good/excellent (£65.50)
Pinot Bianco 2001 Isonzo del
Friuli
Very appealing nose: rich, herby and with an attractive spicy
minerality. The rich savoury palate displays vivid, fresh fruit
characters and a nutty edge. Nicely poised. Very good/excellent (£30.50
per 6)
Riesling 2001 Isonzo del Friuli
Harvested late at yields of 45 hl/ha. Full, expressive crisp
lemony nose with herby complexity. The palate is crisp with a good
concentration of attractive lemony fruit. Very good+ (£31.90 per 6)
Latimis 2000 Isonzo del Friuli
A blend of late-picked Tocai Friulano, Pinot Bianco and Riesling.
Deep yellow colour. Very rich intense herbal nose is savoury and full.
Huge concentration on the rich-textured palate, which stays fresh
despite the weight of rich, herby fruit. Very good/excellent (£61.00
per 12)
Merlot 1999, Isonzo del Friuli
Aged in new French barriques for 12 months. Very deep red/purple
colour. Lovely rich berry fruit on the nose with a subtle leady edge
and some sweet spicy oak. The palate is chunky, concentrated and
savoury with a chocolatey richness to the fruit and good acidity.
Deliciously rich and with potential. Very good+ (£91.50 per 12)
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wines tasted July
2002; article published October 2002
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