Focus on Semillon Semillon is one of those solid, journeyman grape varieties that,
while important, never seems to attract the limelight in the way that
the likes of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling do. This
second-tier status is reinforced by its tendency to be blended, rather
than marketed as a varietal. Nor is its cause helped by the fact that
it's extremely difficult to come up with a list of defining tastes and
aromas that are characteristic of this grape. Always rooting for the
underdog, I thought it was time to take a closer look at Semillon, and
to give this unsung grape variety some proper attention at last.
Semillon's home is in the South West of France, and more
particularly Bordeaux, where it is the most widely planted white
grape. Most commonly it is blended: the classic Bordeaux white is a
mix of Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and often a dash of Muscadelle. It
this blend that also makes the sweet wines of Sauternes and Barsac,
and this is where one of Semillon's strengths comes to the fore. It's
extremely susceptible to noble rot, the posh name for a fungal
infection called Botrytis cinarea. If it attacks unripe or
damaged grapes, it is a disaster. But this particular cloud has a
silver lining. When it attacks ripe, healthy white grapes, it causes
them to shrivel, and these disgusting, mouldy looking berries yield
small quantities of extremely concentrated juice that is then used to
make sublime sweet white wines of great complexity and longevity.
Semillon is the key component in these wines, and it is also used to
make the sweet wines of Monbazillac, also in the South West of France
(in a similar style but usually with a little less noble rot).
However, here we are going to be focusing exclusively on Semillon's role in
making dry table wines. Outside France, the Hunter Valley of Australia
is Semillon's adopted home, and here it makes possibly Australia's
most interesting white wines. Picked early at low potential alcohol
and unoaked, in their youth Hunter Valley Semillons are rather neutral, acidic white
wines. With several years in the bottle, though, they undergo a
metamorphosis, putting on weight and developing a delicious toasty,
honeyed character that could fool you into thinking they've been barrel
fermented. The best examples can carry on evolving for decades.
Elsewhere in Australia, Semillon is undervalued and is often used as a
blending partner for Chardonnay, where it contributes a crisp,
citrussy edge to what might otherwise be overly flabby plonk. And Semillon/Sauvignon blends are common in Western Australia, where
the two grapes
synergize to make some stunning wines. Elsewhere in the new world, Semillon can
perform very well, as some of the wines tasted here amply demonstrate. But they are
usually rare examples, amid a sea of varietal Chardonnay and Sauvignon
Blanc. Let's hope, for the sake of diversity, that growers persevere
with this useful and often delicious variety, even though it lacks the
upfront appeal and marketability of some of its siblings.
Château Broustet 'Blanc Sec de Broustet' 1998 Barsac 2eme Cru
Classe
This fascinating white wine is a dry wine from Barsac (normally a
sweet style). It has an arresting, herby, waxy nose with a complex,
leafy edge and some peachy, tropical fruit notes. There's an unusual
herby, leafy character to the palate, with high acidity on the palate.
Very good/excellent (c. £12)
Sileni Estates Semillon 2000, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand
Interesting citrus and herb nose with a lemony edge. It's
concentrated, lemony and full flavoured on the palate, with a lovely
herbal character. High acidity. Very good/excellent (c. £13.50)
Boekenhoutskloof Estate Semillon 1999, Franschoek, South Africa
The attractive open, toasty, nutty, bready nose clearly shows plenty
of new oak, but it's pretty classy. The palate is savoury and lemony
with high acid. Lots of classy oak, but overall just a tiny bit
disjointed. Very good+ (c. £10.00)
Basedow Barossa Valley Semillon 2000, Barossa, Australia
Fresh lemony nose with some toasty notes. Attractive, full flavoured
palate with bright lemony fruit and good balance. The high acidity and
low key oaking work well here; an attractive, savoury wine. Very good+
(c. £6.50)
Tim Adams Semillon 1998, Clare Valley, Australia
A yellow/gold colour, this has a striking nose of lemony fruit,
coconut and herbs. Complex and savoury on the palate, with powerful
fruit flavours and a savoury, herby edge. Unusual stuff: with great
concentration and intensity, this is a super food wine. Very
good/excellent (Majestic, Tesco £8)
McWilliams Mount Pleasant 'Elizabeth' Semillon 1995, Hunter Valley,
Australia
One of the classic Hunter Valley Semillons; always good value for
money and released with a bit of bottle age. This one's a full
yellow/gold colour, and has a lovely evolved rich nose with toasty,
waxy notes and herbal and honey hints. The palate is intense, bold and
herbal, with high acid and a rich texture. An unusual but stunning
white wine. Excellent (c. £9, some Tesco stores)
Tyrrells Hunter Valley Semillon Vat 31 1996, Hunter Valley
Although it's the current release, this traditional Hunter Valley
Semillon from the Stevens Vineyard probably needs another five years
or so to show its best. It's a rather understated crisp white wine
showing some herby, toasty elements, a touch of smoke and is beginning
to fill out a bit on the palate. Unoaked, and with high acidity. Very
good+ (c. £10 Oddbins)
Tyrrell's Vat 1 Hunter Semillon 1995, Hunter Valley, Australia
A yellow/gold colour, this has a distinctive waxy/herby nose with some
toastiness. Palate is full and savoury with high acidity. It's still
quite tight, and probably needs to evolve some more. Great potential,
though. Very good/excellent (c. £20 Oddbins)
L'Ecole No 41 1999 Columbia Valley Semillon, Washington State, USA
2000 cases produced. Grapes sourced from several vineyards and the
wine is 100% barrel fermented in second and third use oak. Fresh full
nose of boiled sweets leads to a palate showing citrus fruit with a
spicy edge. Light, fresh, bright style; attractive in a technological
sort of way. Very good (c. £10)
L'Ecole No 41 1999 Fries Vineyard Semillon, Washington State, USA
About 500 cases produced. Restrained, fruity nose with nice balance
between the fruit and new oak. The palate shows citrus and spice, with
good balance: it's fruity, but the oak gives some spicy complexity.
Very good+ (c. £15)
L'Ecole No 41 1999 Seven Hills Estate Semillon, Washington State,
USA
About 500 cases made. Extremely attractive nose: aromatic and full,
with sweet ripe fruit and spice. Palate shows spice and vanilla.
Lovely in a full-on style; great fun. Very good+ (c. £15)
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