wines of Van
Volxem, Saar, Germany
Roman Niewodniscanski’s Van Volxem estate is
controversial. Not too far back, he purchased this estate, located on
the site of a Jesuit monastery in the centre of Wiltingen (Saar) with
the view to restoring it to make the sorts of wines it would have made
when German Rieslings fetched higher prices than Bordeaux. He went
back to the 19th century and consulted maps drawn up for tax reasons,
which showed the best vineyards, many of which had been lost sight of
in the 20th century.
He’s given up on the Pradikat system, and instead
makes wines that he reckons express their vineyard sites best, from
late-harvested grapes fermented through to dryness (or relatively
close to). These are a bit different to the classic Mosel-Saar-Ruwer
style, but they’re pretty impressive, nonetheless.
These wines are available in the UK from Berry Bros
& Rudd, whose prices are noted in brackets.
Van Volxem Saar Riesling 2002 Mosel Saar Ruwer,
Lovely tight herb-tinged nose with smoky richness. The palate is
rich and concentrated with nice rich texture and some sweetness to the
lemony fruit. Fresh but rich at the same time. A fantastic
medium-sweet style Riesling. Very good/excellent 91/100 (£9.50)
Van Volxem Scharzhofberger 2003 Mosel Saar Ruwer,
Lovely minerally freshness to the sweet, richly fruited nose.
Complex and beguiling. The palate is richly textured, bold and quite
sweet with nice definition to the fruit. Lovely precision and a long
finish. Very good/excellent 93/100 (£15.95)
Van Volxem Kanzemer Altenberg Alte Reben 2003 Mosel
Saar Ruwer, Germany
Nice fresh, precise edge to the honeyed melony fruit on the nose.
Concentrated, nicely textured palate with good freshness and a
delicious sweet edge. Very good/excellent 92/100 (£28.95)
Van Volxem Wiltinger Kupp 2003 Mosel Saar Ruwer,
Complex nose showing spice, herbs and melon: sweet and inviting.
The palate is concentrated and medium dry with a lovely savoury edge
to the mineral-laced melony fruit. Very good/excellent 93/100 (£15.95)
Wines tasted 05/05
these wines with wine-searcher.com
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