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Some
lovely wines from UK supermarket Waitrose
My selection of 43 of the best
UK
retailer Waitrose probably has the best wine range of all the
supermarkets (the only competitor would be Marks & Spencer, but
they tend to own-brand everything or insist on exclusives). Here’s a
selection of some of the highlights of their range taken from  recent
press tastings. I’ve indicated in brackets how many of their stores
stock each of the wines. In addition, all the wines are available from
Waitrose Wine Direct (www.waitrosewine.com).
Matassa
Cuvée Romanissa 2005 Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes, France
70% Grenache, 15% Carignan, 15% Mouvèdre and 5% Cabernet
Sauvignon, planted on schist/slate slopes, wild yeast ferment, spends
20 months mostly in demi-muids, with some barriques, too.
13.5% alcohol. Vibrant, spicy and intense with lovely freshness
to the dense red berry fruits. Complex and taut wound, with good
structure. Lovely stuff with a bright future ahead of it. 91/100 (£17.99
Waitrose, 13 branches) 04/09
Domaine
Boisson L’Exigence 2007 Côtes du Rhône Villages Cairanne, France
70% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre from old vines planted
on clay and limestone soils. 14.5% alcohol. Deep coloured. Bold, lush,
sweet blackberry fruit nose. Rich, dense, smooth, spicy and lush on
the palate, but still well defined. 91/100 (£14.99 Waitrose, 6
branches) 04/09
Cloudy
Bay Pinot Noir 2007 Wairau Valley, Marlborough, New Zealand
Nine different Pinot Noir clones, destemmed, wild yeast ferment,
50% new oak. 14% alcohol. Lovely focused dark cherry fruit nose is
pure, perfumed and a bit meaty. The palate is dense yet elegant with
expressive dark cherry fruit. Lovely. 92/100 (£20.49 Waitrose, 13
branches) 04/09
Mount
Difficulty Pinot Noir 2007 Central Otago, New Zealand
A mix of gravel/schist and clay soils. 40% new French oak. 14%
alcohol. Really lively and bright with lovely elegant spicy berry and
cherry fruit. Quite supple. Not big but elegant, with lovely smooth
texture. 92/100 (£20.99 Waitrose, 114 branches) 04/09
Villa
Maria Reserve Merlot 2006 Gimblett Gravels, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand
88% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc. Hand
harvested and matured in French oak (40% new). 14% alcohol. Gravelly,
intense, concentrated and sophisticated, with lots of density and
expressive plum and blackcurrant fruit. Serious stuff. 92/100 (£17
Waitrose, 111 branches) 04/09
Craggy
Range Sophia 2005 Gimblett Gravels, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand
A Bordeaux blend aged for 19 months is new French oak. 14%
alcohol. Dense colour. Concentrated sweet lush blackcurrant and
blackberry fruit here with some earthy complexity and spicy structure.
Smooth and quite delicious; sweet and pure. 93/100 (£25 Waitrose, 15
branches) 10/08
Mac
Forbes Coldstream Pinot Noir 2006 Yarra valley, Australia
Half is fermented with wild yeasts, on skins for eight days, then
goes to French oak (one-third new) for a year, before bottling without
fining or filtration. 13.5% alcohol. Pale colour. Beautifully elegant
and expressive with lovely spicy complexity to the cherry fruit, as
well as a hint of herbiness. Just lovely: a light expression of Pinot.
92/100 (£22.50 Waitrose, 6 branches) 04/09
Moss
Wood Amy’s 2007 Margaret River, Australia
A blend of 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Petit Verdot, 14% Malbec
and 2% Merlot. Beautiful. Dense, gravely, sophisticated with lovely
pure, bright blackcurrant fruit and hints of earth and minerality.
Brilliant wine. 92/100 (£13.99 Waitrose, 14 branches) 04/09
Clonakilla
Hilltops Shiraz 2007 New South Wales, Australia
From five vineyards in the Hilltops region at 400–500 m
altitude. Nice dense, spicy, meaty tannic fruit. A wonderfully
expressive wine with good density and expressive, fresh dark fruits.
Delicious and quite serious. 92/100 (£15.99 Waitrose, 6 branches)
04/09
Querciabella
2006 Chianti Classico, Tuscany, Italy
Biodynamic, matured in French oak barriques (10% new), 13.5%
alcohol. Lovely fresh, vibrant, dark fruit nose with dark cherry, plum
and spice notes. The palate shows real elegance to the bright berry
and plum fruit with some spicy tannins. 91/100 (£16.99 Waitrose, 42
branches) 04/09
Remelluri
Rioja Reserva 2004 Spain
90% Tempranillo, 5% Garnacha, 5% Graciano, 40 year old vines, 85%
French oak, 15% American, 13.5% alcohol. Taut, dense, spicy nose is
intense and brooding. The palate has a lovely minerally core with
sweet but balanced dark fruits and nice structure. A really serious
effort. 93/100 (£18.99 Waitrose, 5 branches) 04/09
Muga
Reserva Selección Especial 2004 Rioja, Spain
70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha, 10% Mazuelo, 10% Graciano. 36
months in new oak barriques. 14% alcohol. Very deep coloured. This is
concentrated, sweet, dense and spicy with lovely structured red berry
and plum fruit bolstered by some sophisticated oak. A rich, dense,
savoury style. 91/100 (£18.19 Waitrose, 111 branches) 10/08
Domaine
de la Pousse d’Or Pommard 1er Cru Les Jarollières 2006 Burgundy,
France
30% new oak. Nicely aromatic with sweet, forward cherry fruit and
some spice. Dense yet elegant palate with lovely smooth spicy fruit
(dark cherries, berries, sweet plum) and a hint of oak. 92/100 (£45
Waitrose, 6 branches) 10/08
Joseph
Drouhin Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Feusselottes 2005 Burgundy, France
New French oak for 14 months, 13% alcohol. Smooth, sweet, pure,
elegant nose is quite dense. Concentrated palate shows nice spicy
structure and red and black cherry fruit with style and elegance.
92/100 (£42 Waitrose, 12 branches) 10/08
Furst
Centgrafenberg Spätburgunder Trocken 2006 Franken, Germany
Pale coloured. Very sweet, aromatic nose showing light, sweet,
smooth cherry fruit with a subtle green leafy edge. Expressive. The
palate is sweet, soft and smooth with sappy cherry fruit and a light,
elegant personality. 92/100 (£19.50 Waitrose, 3 branches) 10/08
Château
Musar 2001 Bekaa Valley, Lebanon
13.5% alcohol. Faded red colour; slightly cloudy. Beautiful lifted
aromatic nose: spicy, dense, sweetly spiced, tarry, floral even. The
palate is earthy and spicy with warm fruit and a long spicy finish.
Just lovely, although quite unusual, as is Musar’s style. 92/100 (£17.99
Waitrose 192 branches) 10/08
Orovela
Saperavi 2005 Georgia
Altitude 450–600 metres, yield 45 hl/ha, 80% American oak, 20%
French, 12.5% alcohol. Very deep coloured. Nice pure aromatic
blackberry and plum fruit nose. The palate is spicy, dense and
structured with lovely expessive fresh red berry fruits and good
acidity. A really nice wine. 90/100 (£16.99 Waitrose, 6 branches)
10/08
Rudd
Estate Crossroads Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 Oakville, Napa, California
19 months in French oak. Dense blackcurranty nose with a slightly
meaty, medicinal edge. Rich, concentrated palate with lots of oak and
real density. A big, intense, blockbuster style, but pretty well done
if this is your thing. 92/100 (£45 Waitrose, 15 branches) 10/08
Domaine
Henry Pellé Les Blanchais 2007 Menetou-Salon Morogues, Loire, France
Hand picked from a single vineyard, a portion fermented in barrel,
13.5% alcohol. Concentrated, fresh, rounded and minerally with lovely
presence: a bold, intense Sauvignon, currently tight-wound and firm.
Lovely, and should develop nicely. 90/100 (£15.99 Waotrose, 5
branches) 10/08
Domaine
Vacheron Sancerre 2008 Loire, France
Soils: 45% Jurassic limestone, 45% Eocene flint, 10% Cretaceous
marl. Organic/biodynamic viticulture. Refined, crisp, slightly green
herbal nose. The palate is fresh and intense with good concentration
and a nice herby edge. Very stylish and refined. 90/100 (£15.99
Waitrose, 185 branches) 04/09
Domaine
Du Closel Château des Vaults Clos de Papillon Savennières, Loire,
France
Chenin Blanc from a 4 hectare Clos with volcanic slate soils.
14.5% alcohol. Complex, smooth, pure nose with taut mineral and herb
notes as well as some straw. Concentrated, intense palate has real
depth of toast, herbs and minerals, with a long finish. Serious.
92/100 (£25 Waitrose, 3 branches) 10/08
Domaine
Thibert Père et Fils Pouilly-Vinzelles 2007 Burgundy, France
1.3 hectare limestone-soil vineyard, 13% alcohol. Broad, intense
toasty nose is really sophisticated. Super-elegant, fresh palate with
lovely expressive, pure fruit and well integrated oak. Lovely. 92/100
(£11.99 Waitrose, 116 branches) 10/08
Lupé-Cholet
Nuits St Georges Les Terrasses du Château 2006 Burgundy, France
13.5% alcohol. A rare white Nuits St Georges from a single
vineyard. Sophisticated and expressive with well integrated oak and
toasty richness. Very stylish. 91/100 (£30 Waitrose, 6 branches)
10/08
Joseph
Drouhin Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières 2006 Burgundy,
France
13.5% alcohol. Concentrated and intense with lovely toasty, bready,
figgy richness as well as some lemony freshness on the finish.
Satisfying stuff. 93/100 (£35 Waitrose, 109 branches) 10/08
Domaine
Gérard Thomas et Filles Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Sous Roche Dumay 2007
Burgundy, France
A steep NE-facing vineyard, fermented in 20% new oak. 13% alcohol.
Complex, nutty, toasty and refined. Concentrated and dense with nice
fruitiness and taut nutty intensity. Very stylish. 91/100 (£17.99
Waitrose, 199 branches) 04/09
Jean-Marc
Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet 2007 Burgundy, France
30% new oak, 13% alcohol. Fresh, refined, toasty nose with
citrussy brightness. Lively expressive palate showing citrus notes,
herbs and some stylish toasty new oak. Concentrated and fresh: lovely.
92/100 (£29 Waitrose, 36 branches) 04/09
Domaine
Alan Chavy Puligny-Montrachet Les Clavoillons 2004 Burgundy, France
13.5% alcohol. Old vines. Intense, herby, slightly cabbagey nose
is bold and full. The palate is dense and rich with nice herbiness.
Bold, rich and broad. 91/100 (£30 Waitrose, 5 branches) 04/09
Bründlmayer
Grüner Veltliner Berg Vogelsang 2007 Kamptal, Austria
Mica schist sols, harvested mid-October, 12.5% alcohol. Very
expressive with bright, slightly peppery herb-tinged fruit. Some nice
sweet richness to the fruit, balanced nicely by further citrussy
notes. Lovely. 90/100 (£12.99 Waitrose, 37 branches) 10/08
Domäne
Wachau Grüner Veltliner Achleiten Smaragd 2007 Wachau, Austria
Hand harvested early November from terraced schistous-soiled
vineyards, 14% alcohol, 4.4 g/litre residual sugar. Beautiful stuff:
tastes sweet but this is because of the broad, melony richness of the
fruit. Tasty and full with a nice broad texture. 90/100 (£14.99
Waitrose, 2 branches) 10/08
Rabl
Riesling Schenkenbichl 2007 Kamptal, Austria
Gneiss soils, wild yeast ferment after 6 h skin contact, 13.5%
alcohol, 4.3 g/litre residual sugar. Lovely aromatic nose shows rich
citrussy fruit. Brilliant texture and density on the palate with
rounded fruit showing a citrussy edge. Lovely stuff. 92/100 (£17.99
Waitrose, 3 branches) 10/08
Georg
Mosbacher Deidesheimer Herrgottsacker Riesling Spätlese Trocken 2007
Pfalz, Germany
13% alcohol, 6 g/litre residual sugar. Sandstone and limestone
soils. Taut, spicy herb and apple nose. Rounded, mouth-filling palate
with lovely lemony, honeyed fruit. Rounded and expressive. 90/100 (£14.99
Waitrose, 6 branches) 10/08
Karl
H. Johner Pinot Gris Spätlese 2006 Baden, Germany
13.5% alcohol, 11.6 g/litre residual sugar. Deep yellow colour.
Taut, complex savoury herby nose. The palate is off dry with sweet,
broad, grapey, herby character and some melon notes. A striking wine
with a long finish. 92/100 (£23.50 Waitrose, 6 branches) 10/08
Dr
Loosen Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Kabinett 2007 Mosel, Germany
Steep slopes with red volcanic soil. 8% alcohol, 62 g/litre
residual sugar. Focused fresh lemon and honey nose with some ripe pear
richness on the palate. It’s quite rich and sweet, with lots of
presence. 90/100 (£11.99 Waitrose, 191 branches) 10/08
Dönnhoff
Kreuznacher Krötenpfuhl Riesling Spätlese 2006 Nahe, Germany
South-facing vineyard with quartzite soil. 8% alcohol, 74 g/litre
residual sugar. Brilliantly fresh, aromatic nose like undiluted lemon
squash! Concentrated palate shows fresh, pure lemony fruit with
mineral complexity. Sweet and intense, this is a remarkably pure wine.
93/100 (£20 Waitrose, 15 branches) 10/08
Dr
Wagner Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Auslese 2003 Saar, Germany
Weathered slate soils, 8.5% alcohol, 71 g/litre residual sugar.
Very fresh, expressive lime and herb nose. The palate is concentrated
with nice sweet, pure, honeyed fruit and good acidity. 90/100 (£13
Waitrose, 3 branches) 10/08
Mas
d'en Compte 2006 Priorat, Spain
50% old vine Garnacha Blanca, 20% Picapoll, 15% Pansal and 15%
Macabeo from 'licorella' soils. Fermented in 3000 litre oak barrels.
Very deep yellow/gold colour. Fantastic intense nose with complex
sweet nuts, herbs, vanilla, spice and melon notes. The rich palate is
bold but fresh with complex herb-tinged fruit character. Concentrated
and bold with lots of flavour. Fantastic stuff. 94/100 (£17.99
Waitrose, 1 branch) 10/08
Fefinanes
Albarino 2007 Rias Baixas, Spain
Made from
grapes sourced from 66 growers in the Salnes Valley, hand harvested
and fermented in stainless steel. Complex, expressive, herby and
lemony. This is really delicious with beautiful fruit expression and
lovely complexity. A stylish, elegant white. 92/100 (£14.99 Waitrose,
3 branches) 10/08
Rustenberg
Chardonnay 2007 Stellenbosch, South Africa
Decomposed granite soils, 14% alcohol. Broad nutty and toasty on
the nose with ripe, sweet fruit. Soft, smooth, complex palate with
some vanilla notes and a touch of cream. Ripe with a nutty finish: a
stylish Chardonnay. 91/100 (£10.99 Waitrose, 192 branches) 10/08
Deetlefs
Familie Semillon 2006 Bredekloof, South Africa
88% Semillon and 12% Sauvignon, with a bit of botrytis. 14%
alcohol. Intense rich herb, nut and vanilla nose is lively and
complex. The palate is nutty, lemony and bold with lovely complexity
and intensity, as well as some stylish oak. Fantastic stuff. 93/100 (£18.99
Waitrose, 6 branches) 04/09
Penfolds
Bin 311 Tumbarumba Chardonnay 2006 New South Wales, Australia
From a new-ish region at the foothills of the Snowy Mountains that
specializes in Chardonnay, this is a superb wine. 13.5% alcohol. Very
lively toasty aromatics. The palate is dense yet fresh with lovely
crisp lemony, nutty fruit showing pear, peach and oatmeal richness.
Delicious. 92/100 (£17.99 Waitrose, 21 branches) 04/09
Craggy
Range Old Renwick Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2008 Marlborough, New
Zealand
13% alcohol. Crisp, fresh, expressive and quite minerally with
good acidity. Tasty stuff with real sophistication. 91/100 (£11.99
Waitrose, 192 branches) 10/08
Villa
Maria Reserve Chardonnay 2006 Marlborough, New Zealand
Mostly clone 95 with some 1, 15 and Mendoza, too. Awatere and
Wairau valleys, hand harvested, 14% alcohol. Complex, dense and toasty
with lovely acidity. A big, bold Chardonnay with real impact. 91/100 (£10.15
Waitrose, 21 branches) 10/08
Domaine
Albert Mann Senteurs de Vignes 2006 Alsace, France
An unusual blend of Riesling, Pinot Gris, Muscat, Gewürztraminer
and Pinot Auxerrois. Organic, 12.5% alcohol, 8 g/l residual sugar.
Powerful, rich, intense melony fruit dominates, with some ripe apple
and citrus notes, too. Richly textured, deliciously balanced and quite
special. 91/100 (£10.49 Waitrose, 5 branches) 04/09
Wines tasted as indicated
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