Wines
Report tasting: 18 interesting wines
One of the most interesting tastings I’ve been to in recent
months was held at DK’s Strand headquarters to mark the launch of Wine
Report 2004. The line-up was put together by Tom Stevenson,
who selected 18 wines from the books ‘100 most exciting wine
finds’. This was the first time I’d tasted a Japanese wine, and
only the second that I’d tasted one from China. Not all are
available in the UK, of course – where they are I’ve provided
details of availability.
Frederic Lornet Arbois Naturé 1999 Jura, France
Normally Arbois (the region) Savagnin (grape variety) is either
made as vin jaune (under a flor, like fino Sherry), or it is rather
oxidised from old fashioned winemaking. This is fresh and characterful,
made in a clean modern style but still retaining personality. It has a
beguiling fresh herby nose with some lemony notes. Concentrated, dense
and rich on the palate with fresh fruit. Delicious. Very
good/excellent 90/100
Domaine Gerovassiliou White wine of Epanomi 2002 Greece
Lovely lively fruity nose is full of interest, with limey, floral
notes. The palate is crisp, fresh and herby, savoury and intense.
Delicious stuff, with crisp acidity. Very good+ 89/100 (£6.49 Oddbins)
Domaine Gauby La Soula Blanc 2001 Coteaux des Fenouillèdes,
Roussillon
Gauby is best known for his sought-after, hugely expensive reds,
but this white wine, a blend of Marsanne, Grenache Blanc, Roussanne,
Rolle and Chenin Blanc grown at altitude, is quite special. The
distinctive nose shows pronounced toasty notes with a herby edge.
Distinctive, powerful palate with toasty oak and rich, herby fruit,
with pronounced acidity. An extreme style, but enjoyable and full of
interest. Very good/excellent 90/100 (£12 Raeburn)
Pascal Jolivet Attitude Sauvignon Blanc 2002 Loire
Lovely rich, forward grassy nose – very modern with a herby
edge. The palate is fruity and crisp with intense flavours of grassy
gooseberry fruit. Tasty and full flavoured, this would put many
Sancerres to shame. Very good+ 88/100 (£7.99 Soho Wine Supply,
Booths/everywine.co.uk, Direct Wine Imports)
J-P and J-F Becker Riesling Lerchenberg 2001 Alsace
This organic Alsace wine is delicious, with rich fruit showing a
lemony edge and a delicate structure on the palate. Impeccable
balance. Very good+ 88/100
Domaine Zind Humbrecht Zind 2001 Vin de Table, Alsace
A Vin de Table because of its Chardonnay content (35%), which is
complemented by Auxerrois and Pinot Blanc, from the top vineyards of
Rotenberg, Herrenweg and Clos Windsbuhl. Fermented with natural yeasts
in cask. Deep coloured. Lovely rich, grassy, herby nose is intense and
full. The palate is lively and concentrated with a huge weight of rich
herbal fruit. Savoury with lovely acidity and a bit of residual sugar
to add richness, although the overall effect is dry. Very
good/excellent 91/100 (£13 Waitrose)
Miyazaki Tsuno Wines Campbell Early Rose 2002 Japan
Campbell Early is a non-vinifera variety (resistant to the
diseases that would otherwise obliterate Vitis vinifera grapes
grown here), and the distinction of this wine is that it lacks the
foxy off-flavours that many people find off-putting with these wines.
This is a bright pink colour. It has an overpowering sweet jammy nose,
and the palate is clean and fresh with flavours of strawberry jelly.
Sweet finish. Remarkable but weird. Very good 82/100 (About £7 in
Japan [¥Y1220])
#
Juris Ina’ Mera 2000 Austria
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Blaufränkisch. Ripe
sweet fruit on the nose with some vanilla notes. Soft, sweet ripe
fruit on the palate. Good concentration: spicy and rich. Very good+
86/100
Weingut Rudolf Fürst Frühburgunder ‘R’ Bürgstadter
Centgrafenberg 1999 Franken, Germany
A light mutation of Pinot Noir that has been grown in the area for
150 years. Distinctive herbal undergrowthy edge to the nose. The
concentrated palate shows rich sweet fruit with a distinctive herbal
character. I’m not fully convinced by this. Very good+ 86/100
Flam Merlot Reserve 2000 Judean Mountains, Israel
Good structure here with herbal intensity and firm tannins.
There’s a spicy, earthy undercurrent to the fruit. Savoury and firm
in an old world style, this is quite serious with perhaps a touch of
rusticity. Very good/excellent 91/100 ($36 in USA)
Flam Classico 2001 Israel
A blend of Merlot from the Judean Mountains and Cabernet from
Upper Galilee. Striking spicy nose is savoury with a hint of animal
about it. The palate is intense and spicy with a rustic edge to the
appealing savoury fruit. Very good+ 87/100 ($18 in USA)
Château de Kafraya Comte de M 1998 Lebanon
Three-quarters Cabernet, one-quarter Syrah from the Bekaa Valley.
Soft, dense and rich with lots of savoury fruit. Some leathery, herby
notes, too. Concentrated and interesting. Very good+ 89/100 (jnwine.com
have this for £24.75)
Jackson-Triggs Proprietors Grand Reserve Cabernet
Sauvignon Shiraz 2001 Okanagan Valley, Canada
Some subtle spicy vanilla notes on the nose with ripe fruit. The
palate is appealing with spicy-edged ripe fruit and good
concentration. Impressive. Very good+ 88/100 (C$19.95)
Dragon Seal Cru du Huailai Syrah 2000 China
From Rhône cuttings grown in Huailai county in Hebei province,
close to the great wall west of Beijing. Savoury plumy nose with a
striking spicy edge. The palate is savoury and fruity with a
distinctive mineral edge and a touch of herbaceousness. Very good
84/100 (US$15 ex-cellars)
Gentilini Syrah 2001 Cephalonia, Greece
Gentilini are well known already for their excellent Ribolla-based
whites from the island of Cephalonia. Made by British winemaker
Gabrielle Beamish. Contains 15% Mavrodaphne. Spicy, brambly nose. The
palate shows concentrated herb-tinged black fruits with firm, spicy
tannins. Expressive wine with lots of character: very well made in a
savoury, old-world style. Very good/excellent 90/100
Craggy Range Le Sol Syrah 2001 Hawkes Bay
Made in a non-interventionist way, with no added sulfur dioxide
for an 8–10 day cold soak with natural yeast cool fermentation.
Malolactic in new and second use French oak. Rich intense fruit on the
nose with a savoury edge. The palate shows a huge concentration of
ripe berry and black fruits: pure and rich with a spicy edge.
Delicious and pure, this is still quite primary. Very good/excellent
90/100
(2002 vintage will be £30 in UK)
Gaia Estate Nemea 2000 Greece
Low yield Agioritiko from hillside vineyards at Koutsi. Sweet ripe
fruit and vanilla on the nose. Palate shows ripe creamy sweet fruit
with a strong vanilla imprint. Sweet and soft, this is accessible but
oaky. Very good 84/100
Champagne Moutard NV Cuvée aux 6 Cépage
Made from all six permitted grape varieties (Chardonnay, Pinot
Noir, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Blanc, Arbane and Petit Meslier), from the
2000 vintage. Quite toasty and rich with lots of flavour and freshness
to it. Very good+ 87/100
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