The
World of Fine Wine
There’s
a new wine magazine. It’s bimonthly, published by the Quarto group,
and it’s £13 an issue. With the rather straight-down-the-middle
title and content that focuses on the elite of the wine world (with a
smattering of arts and lifestyle material, too), this magazine is
clearly pitched at the very well heeled.
The
publishers have gathered together a star-studded cast of wine experts,
with journalists, wine makers and trade figures among the
contributors. Editor is Harpers' staff writer Neil Beckett,
assisted by a heavyweight editorial board. What’s it like? It’s
sort of like an up-market Decanter, with longer, more in-depth
features, more credible tastings and less advertising. It’s
certainly very ‘establishment’ in its approach. The design and
layout is quite American-style and very conservative. The writing is
of a good standard, but is a bit highbrow (deliberately, I suspect)
and leaden in places. I particularly enjoyed Andrew Jefford’s
lengthy but absorbing exploration of terroir in Bordeaux, Michel
Bettane’s provocative but well argued column, and Neil Beckett’s
brave, solid feature stating Sherry’s case for admission to the fine
wine club. The round-up of Bordeaux 2003 here is the best I’ve seen
so far, with informative tasting notes and what look like reliable
scores.
Should
you subscribe to it? Well, if you are shelling out regularly for fine
wine en primeur, the price (it’s undeniably expensive for a
magazine) shouldn’t deter you. What the magazine lacks in
imagination and creativity, it makes up for with a sensible, thorough
commentary on the world of fine wine by people who know what they are
talking about. Assuming that the standard set by the first issue is
maintained, this could be a useful contribution to the wine
literature. It’s greatest strength is that it is giving writers the
space they need to explore important issues in depth, and this is
almost unheard of in wine magazine publishing. I’m looking forward
to issue 2.
website:
www.finewinemag.com
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