1998
Australian Reds, including Grange
A selection of top Australian red wines from the successful
1998 vintage, tasted at a recent Waitrose (UK supermarket) press
tasting. These wines are currently all available from the Inner
Cellar rooms at Waitrose’s Kingston and Canary Wharf branches,
and some of them are carried by Waitrose Wine Direct (mail order).
Overall, I was a little disappointed with the way some of them
were showing five years down the line. Grange 1998 was head and
shoulders above the rest of the field, and if you can lay your
hands on any of this at the indicated price (£110), you’ve got
a bargain considering at what this much-hyped vintage is trading
for elsewhere.
Tatachilla Foundation Shiraz 1998 McLaren Vale
Vinified in open fermenters and then aged in French and
American oak for 18 months. Opaque colour. Concentrated,
structured wine with tarry, minerally fruit that has a distinctive
minty edge. A big style that is currently a little awkward now
that the lush fruit has receded a touch and the oak is evident.
Very good+ 88/100 (£16)
Capel Vale Kinnaird Shiraz 1998 Western Australia
Single vineyard wine from Whispering Hill in Mount Barker.
Spends 17 months in a mix of new and second-fill French oak
barriques. Surprisingly evolved, this is shows intense herby black
fruits with a minerally edge. The fruit is fading a bit. Good
acidity. Very good+ 87/100 (£20)
Peter Lehmann Eight Songs Shiraz 1998 Barossa Valley
From 80–90 year old vines this is matured in French oak for
two years. It’s an expressive, boldly styled Barossa wine: spicy
and rich, with good tannins and a tarry edge. Very good+ 99/100 (£25)
Katnook Estate Odyssey Cabernet Sauvignon 1998 Coonawarra
From a mature low-yielding vineyard. Rich, intense black
fruits dominate the nose. Bold, spicy and rich on the palate. A
big style, perhaps aiming for too much ripeness? Very good+ 88/100
(£30)
Rosemount Estate Balmoral Shiraz 1998 McLaren Vale
Spends two years in American oak. Opaque but slightly fading
colour. Evolved sweet herby nose. The rich fruit on the palate is
receding and it’s currently quite herby. Very evolved and a
little disappointing. Very good+ 86/100 (£35)
Penfolds Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon 1998 South Australia
15 months in new American oak. Intense, rounded nose with
sweetly spiced licquoricey blackcurrant fruit. The palate is
concentrated, bold and spicy with firm tannins and good acidity.
Bold stuff with real potential. Very good/excellent 90/100 (£40)
Penfolds Grange 1998 South Australia
This legendary wine spends 18 months in new American oak.
Opaque red/black colour. Tight nose with complex tar, black fruit
and spice notes. Massively tight on the palate with firm tannins
dominating. Lots of spicy richness here and a firm core of
minerally, tarry fruit. A significant wine. Excellent 95/100 (£110)
wines
tasted October 2003
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