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The wines of Sepp Moser, Austria

Website: www.sepp-moser.at 

Weingut Sepp Moser, run by Nikolaus Moser, is one of the growing band of biodynamic producers in Austria. From 2008 they will be totally biodynamic. One of their wines is pioneering in that it is made without the addition of sulfur dioxide – the ‘Minimal’ Grüner Veltliner. It's tricky enough making red wines without sulfur dioxide, and even more difficult to make whites, but Nickolaus Moser has managed it. They're really good wines across the board, and the Minimal is pretty special indeed.

UK agent: Boutinot

Sepp Moser Grüner Veltliner Gebling Classic 2006 Kremstal, Austria
Quite a rich nose: some lovely texture here. Rich with a peppery, nutty character and lovely rich fruit. This is a really nice wine with a smooth texture and good depth. 89/100 (02/08)

Sepp Moser Grüner Veltliner Breiter Rain 2006 Kremstal, Austria
Fermented in large oak. Deep coloured with a nice, rich nutty herby nose. The palate has lovely rich smooth texture and slightly sweet fruit. Really elegant and great with sushi, this is just fantastic. 92/100 (02/08)

Sepp Moser Gruner Veltliner Schnabel 2006 Kremstal, Austria
Older vines, later harvest. Fresh vivid and peppery on the nose. The palate is complex broad and minerally with good acidity. Fresh, full, complex and expressive. 91/100 (02/08)

Sepp Moser Gruner Veltliner Schnabel 2006 Kremstal, Austria
A classic Gruner, this has a lovely peppery freshness with richer textural elements to the fruit. There's some bright minerality and fresh acidity on the palate, keeping this from being fat, and combined with the smooth, rich texture it makes for quite a compelling wine that should age nicely in bottle. Pure, refined and expressive. 91/100  (11/07)

Sepp Moser Gruner Veltliner Schnabel 'Minimal' 2005 Kremstal, Austria
This wine, made without any added sulfur dioxide, is pretty wild stuff. There's a hint of cloudiness to the yellow/golden colour. On the nose, spicy, slightly peppery fresh notes are combined with richer, toasty, vanilla, bready elements to create a warm, complex whole. The palate has really nice tangy, minerally acidity under the warm toasty, bready notes. There's also some tannic structure here, which is unusual in whites. Extremely food friendly and quite complex, with a pleasant sort of reductive character. Who knows how this will develop, but it's quite serious and thought provoking now. Serious effort. 94/100 (11/07)

Sepp Moser Sauvignon Blanc Schnabel 2006 Kremstal, Austria
Unusual. Slightly funky and soft textured. Richly flavoured, ripe and herbal with broad, warm flavours. Rich and intense. 89/100 (02/08)

Sepp Moser Blauer Zweigelt Grosse Reserve 2004 Burgenland
An elegant, soft red wine. Classy open, sweet blackcurrant and blackberry nose with pure fruit. The palate is ripe and full with soft texture. Mellow and a bit earthy. 88/100 (02/08)

Sepp Moser Chardonnay TBA 2004 Burgenland
Sweet and apricotty on the nose. The palate is concentrated and viscous with bold apricotty fruit. Very sweet, but balanced with good acidity. 91/100 (02/08)

Wines tasted 11/07 and 02/08  
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See also: my series on Austrian wines

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