The wines of Sepp and Maria Muster, Susteiermark, Austria

Weingut Muster
Natural wines from Sepp and Maria Muster in South Styria, Austria

Website: www.weingutmuster.com

Maria & Sepp Muster (Sepp is pictured above) are based in southern Styria (Sudsteirmark), Austria, not far from the Slovenian border. They have 10 hectares of vines and are certified biodynamic by Demeter Austria, which is very strict.

The steeply sloped vineyards are formed of rocky, clay and silt soils with some limestone, and they’re at an altitude of around 450 metres. Southern Styria has warm summers with cool nights, and cold winters – it’s a continental climate.

The vines are trellised on chestnut posts with a single wire at 1.8 metres. Canes are trained along this and then the foliage hangs down, giving the vineyards a slightly wild look. But it works in this climate – it’s the traditional method here.

Winemaking is quite natural. All ferments are spontaneous and the wines mature for long periods in barrel – normally at least two years. They are then bottled without fining or filtration, and some wines are made without added sulfur dioxide, while others have small additions.

These are fabulous wines. They are now being imported into the UK by Les Caves de Pyrene.

THE WINES

Sepp & Maria Muster Erde 2011 Steierland, Austria
This wine comes in a distinctive clay-effect bottle. It’s Sauvignon with a bit of Chardonnay and spends a year on its skins with 50% stems. It has a lovely floral nose with elderflowers and apricots, leading to a palate showing minerals, a savoury edge and grainy but smooth structure. Supple and delicious, this is a lovely wine. Doug Wregg says that he has had a bottle of this open for seven days, and watched its fascinating evolution. 94/100 (02/15)

Sepp & Maria Muster Erde 2011 Steierland, Austria
Very floral with peach and apricot notes, as well as some citrus freshness. The textured palateis broad and rich with lovely melon and apricot fruit, as well as grainy structure. So beautiful. 94/100 (04/14)

Sepp & Maria Muster Sgaminegg 2008 Steierland, Austria
A blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay from an extraordinary terroir that’s very stony with lots of flint. This wine is warm, rich and nutty with a spicy peachy nose, and a textured, rounded, bold palate with some pear and melon fruit. So textured and rich, this is developing nicely. 92/100 (02/15)

Sepp & Maria Muster Sgaminegg 2010 Steierland, Austria
Top of the slope with very poor soils, a blend of Sauvignon and Chardonnay. Amazing nose with some matchstick reduction and a bit of rubber. The palate is linear with amazing freshness and vitality, with that lovely reduction adding complexity. 94/100 (04/14)

Sepp & Maria Muster Gräfin 2011 Steierland, Austria
100% Sauvignon Blanc, 16 days on skins, 20% stems. Full yellow colour. Richly textured pear and peach fruit. Lovely detailed palate is elegant with some grip and really pretty fruit. This is the most elegant of orange (skin contact) wines. 94/100 (04/14)

Sepp & Maria Muster Sauvignon Vom Opok 2011 Steierland, Austria
Appley, herby, rounded and fruity with nice texture and some waxy notes. Nice weight. 89/100 (04/14)

Sepp & Maria Muster Graf Sauvignon 2010 Steierland, Austria
Complex aromatics leads to a rounded palate showing herbs, lemons, apples and pears with some smoky minerality. A vital wine. 92/100 (04/14)

Sepp & Maria Muster Graf Morillon 2011 Steierland, Austria
Morillon is the local name for Chardonnay. Textured with pear and spice notes as well as lovely rounded fruit. Mouthfilling pure and mineral with ripe apple fruit dominating. 91/100 (04/14)

Sepp & Maria Muster Zweigelt 2011 Steierland, Austria
Juicy, vivid and bright with zippy cherry and plum fruit, as well as keen acidity. 91/100 Sepp & Maria

Muster Graf Zweigelt 2007 Steierland, Austria
From rocky soils at the top of the slope. Very stylish, chalky and grainy with lovely pure fruit and some slightly earthy, chalky notes. Sophisticated stuff with good structure and refinement. 92/100 (02/15)

Sepp & Maria Muster Graf Zweigelt 2008 Steierland, Austria
Ripe and sweet with cherries and plums, as well as nice grip, and a savoury, meaty edge. A nicely complex wine. 91/100 (04/14)

Sepp & Maria Rotwein 2009 Steierland, Austria
A blend. This shows lively cherries and herbs with hints of meat and cheese, with the crisp berry fruits kept fresh by high acidity. 90/100 (04/14)