The
wines of
Barbeito,
Madeira
Vihnos Barbeito (Madeira) Ltd
PO Box 264, Estrada Monumental 145, 9000-098 Funchal, Madeira
Tel: +351 29176 1829 Fax: +351 29176 5832
First, some background about Madeira. It’s a fortified wine
style from the volcanic Atlantic island of Madeira, part of Portugal.
The wine’s distinctive flavour comes from a special heating process.
Traditionally, casks are left in warm lofts to maderize over a number
of years (canteiro wines), although a cheaper process used for lesser
wines involves heating the wines artificially in concrete or stainless
steel tanks known as estufas. Because of this heat exposure, Madeiras
are pretty much bomb proof and will drink well from an opened bottle
for a number of weeks or even months. The market for Madeira in the UK
is tiny, at 35 000 bottles, and this is heavily dominated by two
companies – the Madiera Wine Company (Blandy’s, Cossart,
Leacock’s et al) and Henriques and Henriques – who account for 95%
of the UK market. It’s also staggeringly seasonal, with over 90% of
sales each year in the lead up to Christmas.
Now to Barbeito, a recent addition to Raymond Reynolds
impressive portfolio of Portuguese wines and their first venture into
Madeira. Barbeito is a family-owned company formed in 1946, and their
philosophy is to offer 100% canteiro wines, with no added caramel or
deacidification. This is authentic Madeira. The range was presented by
Ricardo De Freitas, managing director and grandson of the founder. Barbeito wines will be
launched on the UK market from this September, and stockists include
Berry Bros, Halifax Wine Co, Nobody Inn, Fortnum & Mason, La
Vigneronne, Butlers Wine Cellar, Ballantynes, Clifton Cellars and La
Forge.
Barbeito ‘Single Harvest’ Tinta Negra Mole 1995
Tinta Negra Mole is traditionally a bulk variety, but Barbeito are
trying to show that it’s possible to produce interesting wines from
it. This example is cask matured and displays a wonderfully complex
nose with spice, vanilla and caramel notes. The palate is medium sweet
with a lovely texture and huge spicy, rich complexity. Quite
wonderful. Excellent (£13.95 for 50 cl)
Veramar Boal (5 Year Old)
100% Boal from a single harvest. Sweet caramelly edge to the nose
which has a freshness to it as well as notes of toffee and honey.
Sweet, intense palate with a lovely texture. Rich, full and complex.
Very good+ (£8.99 for 50 cl)
Boal 10 Year Old
According to, Ricardo Diogo Freitas, Barbeito are trying to make a
fresh style. This is 100% natural colour, without any added caramel.
Their stated goal is to make ‘interesting wines’. Quite pale
colour. Lovely intense spice and caramel nose. Good balance on the
palate which is rich and full with complex sweet flavours and good
acidity. Quite sweet in style, this is wonderful. Very good/excellent
(£18.99)
20 Year old Blend, Malvasia Special Reserve
Quite deep, sweet intense nose with some sweet herb notes and a
caramel and toffee edge. Rich, intense, complex palate has high
acidity and quite a bit of alcohol. Lovely complex stuff with a
caramel and toffee edge. Very good/excellent (£33)
Boal Vintage 1978
Ricardo calls this the young wine. A deeper orange/brown colour.
Very intense almost savoury nose. Complex, smoky and toffee-ish. Bold
spicy-edged palate is hard to describe: it’s not too sweet but it is
very complex. Very good/excellent (£38)
Malvasia 1900
It’s not often you get a chance to taste a wine that’s more
than a century old. Deep brown with a yellow/orange rim. Remarkably
intense nose with toffee and caramel complexity, and complex lifted
acidity. It’s a little unusual. Huge, dense, thick palate with high
acid. Notes of spice, toffee and coffee combine with the high acidity
to create a remarkable wine. Excellent
See
also: a more recent review (November 2003) of Barbeito's
wines; Spotlight on Madeira
For
tasting notes of other Portuguese wines click
here
Back to top
Wines tasted May
2002, article published September 2002
|