The
wines
of Domaine
du Closel, Savennières, Loire
Château des Vaults, 49170 Savennières, France
Tel: +33 2 41 72 81 00 Fax: +33 2 41 72 86 00
E-mail: closel@savennieres-closel.com
Website: www.savennieres-closel.com
UK agent: Domaine du Closel UK, idepontbriand@savennieres-closel.com
Some pretty serious white wines being made here at this
Savennières property. While the reds aren’t bad, it is the white
Chenin Blanc grape that is the star performer. For those unfamiliar
with Savennières, it is widely regarded to be the highest expression
of Chenin Blanc in its dry incarnation. Unlike Vouvray, which can be
either dry, medium-sweet or very sweet (depending on the vagaries of
the vintage and the choice of the producer), Savennières is usually
quite a dry white wine. It’s a bit of an acquired taste, but I find
the complex, savoury flavours really appealing.
Closel farm organically, and they are certified by Terra
Vitis. They also make and market the wines of Charles Beduneau, who
produces a Coteaux du Layon and Anjou red and rosé.
Domaine du Closel La Jalousie 2001
Intense herbal, savoury nose with some ripe toasty elements, and
something that reminds me of straw. The mouthfilling, savoury palate
is quite rich textured and concentrated. Bone dry with a herby,
straw-like edge. Very good/excellent 90/100
Domaine du Closel La Jalousie 2002
With this vintage the wine has been made in a slightly different
style: malolactic has been allowed and the wines is aged on its lees
with battonage. The goal is to produce something a little less
austere. Open herby, toasty nose with a touch of cheese. Fresh, crisp
and fruity on the palate with lemony acidity and a herbal character.
Very good+ 89/100
(Gauntley wine stock this at £98 per case/12 ex vat)
Domaine du Closel Clos du Papillon 2001
From a butterfly shaped vineyard, this is a
serious wine that will age well. Tight, complex herby nose is savoury
and firm. The palate is taut and shows lots of herby, straw-like, waxy
flavours. Lovely acid structure and minerality. Very good/excellent
91/100
(Berry Bros have this for £12.55 bottle)
Domaine du Closel Clos du Papillon 1999
Herbal, minerally complexity on the nose, which is savoury and
intense. The palate is fresh, concentrated and intensely savoury with
firm lemony acidity and mealy, herby fruit. Still tight. Very
good/excellent 90/100
Domaine du Closel Les Callardières 2001
This one is from a vineyard patch with different soil: a sandy
area with older vines. Some residual sugar is left in. A delicate
herbiness with some mineral notes on the nose. The palate is rounded
and fresh, seemingly less intense than the other wines. Fine acidity
on the finish. Very good+ 87/100
Domaine du Closel Anjou Rouge 2000
This red is light, showing leafy, minerally fruit. Fresh and
tasty. Very good+ 85/100
Domaine du Closel Anjou Villages Rouge 2001
There’s a smoky minerality to the black fruits nose. The
relatively intense palate is savoury and firm. Very good+ 87/100
Domaine Charles Beduneau Coteaux du Layon Saint Lambert
2002
Lovely fresh herby spicy nose. Viscous but brilliantly poised
palate is herby and spicy with lovely delicate complexity. Sweet. Very
good/excellent 91/100
Domaine Charles Beduneau Coteaux du Layon Vieilles Vignes
2002
Lovely nose: delicate and herby. The palate is rich and thick
textured with a floral elegance and good acidity. Clean, pure and
sweet. Very good+ 88/100
see
also: tasting notes of Loire wines
Back to top
|