The
wines of Quinta do Portal, Douro, Portugal
Website:
www.quintadoportal.com
‘Slowly, more and more people are
getting into Portuguese wines,’ says Pedro Branco, export director
of Quinta do Portal, and part of the family who own the winery.
Portal is a family owned, family run
winery based in the Douro Valley. One property of theirs, Quinta dos
Mouros, has been in the family since 1881. Traditionally, they used
to make Port wines, and until 1974 all their wines were sold to Port
shippers. ‘From 1974 on we started building our own stock,’
explains Branco. From 1991, the family started building the Quinta
do Portal project, focusing on both table wines and Ports, and
buying some new Quintas. ‘Our big bet was with Douro wines,’
says Branco.
Portal have five properties in the
Pinhão Valley, with over 100 hectares in all. This makes them a
reasonably serious player: this is in the best part of the Douro for
table wines, the Cima Corgo.
‘In order to produce the wines we
had to change a lot,’ reveals Branco. ‘It was a learning curve
with lots of experimentation.’ The first bottling under the Portal
brand was in 1994.
For Douro wines, Portal use just the
Portuguese varieties. All the reds contain at least three: Touriga
Nacional, Tinta Roriz and Touriga Franca. Currently, the split in
the portfolio is 25% table wine, 65% Port, 10% Moscatel.
Pascal Chatonnet has been consulting
at Portal since the beginning, in 1991. ‘We are good friends,’
says Branco. ‘He comes here four times a year, helps a bit in the
vineyards and then blends and selects the wines.’ Winemaking is in
the hands of Paolo Coutinho (since 1994). Branco says that there has
been a big style in the Portal wines, with much better wines from
2000. Total production is 300 000 bottles from 1200
tons.
Pedro
had some interesting thing to say about the beneficio system. The
‘beneficio’ is a bit of paper that gives a producer the right to
add brandy to must, and therefore make Port. Every year you receive
a letter telling you how much Port you can make, and this quantity
will vary according to Port stocks, the market, the vintage forecast
and so on. The beneficio is tied to vineyards, and therefore to
grapes. Legally, you can sell someone your beneficio with the grapes
that it relates to. But what sometimes happens is that people just
buy or sell the piece of paper without the grapes. For table wines,
you don’t need a beneficio, so if you had a great vineyard but
didn’t want to make Port from it, there would be a beneficio going
spare. Or if you had some fantastic grapes and you wanted to make
more Port than your current beneficio permitted, you might buy
someone’s beneficio but tell them to keep their grapes.
The
wines
Quinta do Portal Rosé 2007
Deep pink colour with an orange edge. Sweet, creamy, rounded
strawberry and red fruit nose. The palate is rich, fruity and creamy
with a hint of spice. 87/100
Quinta do Portal Reserva 2005
Deep coloured. Bright, focused nose with a spicy edge to the
dark fruits. Intense, spicy and a bit edgy. The palate has firm,
dense, spicy structure with good acidity and lovely black fruit
character. There’s a hint of chocolatey richness here. Structured
and quite savoury. 92/100
Quinta do Portal Grande Reserva
2000
Matured in all new oak. Sweet, open nose is quite complex with
notes of chocolate and coffee, as well as warm tarry, spicy fruit.
The palate is nicely savoury with tarry, earthy notes and sweet ripe
blackberry and blackcurrant fruit. Tarry and mineral, this is
evolving really nicely. 92/100
Quinta do Portal Grande Reserva
2003
Deep coloured. Tight, spicy, tarry nose with fresh red and black
fruit character. The palate is dense and spicy with firm, tight,
grippy tannins adding focus to the densely fruity palate. Currently
tannic and tight but with lovely fruit expression. Italian style.
93/100
Quinta do Portal Grande Reserva
2006
Sweet, chocolatey, open nose with lovely pure sweet fruit.
Veering towards tasting confected. Very perfumed at this early
stage. The palate is sweetly fruited and open with an expressive,
bright personality. Finishes with some firm tannins and a bit of
minerality. 91/100
Quinta do Portal Vintage Port
2003
Very deep colour. Sweet fruity nose is vibrant and plumy with
some raspberry fruit. The palate is concentrated and sweet with
lovely spicy depth and tannic structure. Bright, pure fruit here
combines with some grippy tannins. 92/100
Portal+ Vintage Port 2003
Warm, spicy, chocolatey nose shows sweet pure fruit. Lush but
well defined. The palate shows lovely concentration with expressive
fruit and nice bright, spicy tannic structure. Real depth and
structure here with nice complexity. 94/100
Quinta
do Portal Vintage Port 2004
Very pure and fruit focused with lovely vivid, expressive fruit.
Really dense and intense with a vivid floral fruity character. Pure
fruit is the focus here. 92/100
Wines tasted 09/08
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