Zimbro is a beautiful – if as yet unfinished project – based in
Portugal's Douro region. I visited with Ana Hespanhol.
Ana Hespanhol
Her father, Manuel Pinto Hespanhol, bought the quinta in 2003, and
also a large 2000 ton winery in Regua. In 2015 he died, and she has
scaled the operation back to focus on just making estate wines from
Zimbro. She now shares the large winery with other small producers.
Ana was born in Regua and originally studied economics, moving back
to the Douro in 2011. She's moving towards working organically in
the vineyards, and production has been scaled back to 35 000
bottles.
A short video with Ana explaining the project:
Her grandfather, father and uncle had a wine brand that was
important in the 1990s, called Calços de Tanha which they
made near Regua in an old winery with granite lagares. They decided
to grow the quantity at just the wrong time, in 2007 before the
financial crash.
As well as making the Zimbro wines, Ana is also involved in a
micronegociant project called Grau Baumé with her partner
Hugo Mateus and her sister. This began in 2008.
We spent some time looking around the Quinta. Its buildings are in
need of repairing, and she's looking to start a crowd funding
project to help with this. The main job is fixing the roof. It's a
really nice property and it will be lovely once it is finished.
THE
WINES
Grau Baumé Viosinho 2016 Douro, Portugal
14.5% alcohol. Very fresh and linear but with nice pear, citrus and
spice flavours. Lively with a little warmth from the alcohol. Has a
nice mineral dimension. 90/100
Grau Baumé Viosinho 2017 Douro, Portugal (barrel
sample) Lovely bright citrus an pear fruit with nice
freshness and subtle fine herby notes. Steely and focused but with
nice fruit too. 92/100
Zimbro Branco Reserva 2010 Douro, Portugal
Grapes from Murça. Five varieties: Gouveio, Malvasina, Codega,
Rabigato and Cercial. Some nut and toast notes with subtle cabbage
and herbs. Developing nicely into a savoury maturity. 90/100
Grau Baumé Rosé 2017 Douro, Portugal From one barrel, 400 bottles. Very pale with just a hint of
salmon. Nicely savoury with some citrus and pear characters. Linear,
fresh and a bit stony. 90/100
Quinta do Zimbro 2013 Douro, Portugal Made from
Quinta-grown grapes. Spends 9 months in used barrels, a mix of
French and American. Sweet, floral and attractive with chocolate
hints on the berry fruits nose. This is fresh, pure and direct with
nice vivid black cherry fruit and fine spiciness. 91/100
Quinta do Zimbro 5 Marias 2014 Douro, Portugal
The five sisters, Ana included, all have Maria in their names. This
is supple, fresh and attractive with a grainy, chalky edge to the
supple cherry and berry fruits. There's a nice savoury twist to the
appealing fruit, as well as an attractive mineral dimension. Carries
its 15% alcohol well. 91/100
Quinta do Zimbro Grande Reserva 2009 Douro, Portugal Sweetly aromatic on the nose with a savoury, slightly
earthy, spicy underpinning. This is juicy and supple with a grainy,
savoury twist to the sleek black fruits and it is maturing well.
92/100
Grau Baumé 2014 Douro, Portugal Made with
Zimbro grapes. Aged 24 months in barrel in a mix of French and
American oak, 14.5% alcohol. Sweetly aromatic with some vanilla oak
meshing well with floral cherry fruit. The palate is opulent with
spicy oak and some richness, yet there's also a bit of restraint.
Needs time to absorb the oak. 91/100
Quinta do Zimbro 2015 Douro, Portugal Fresh,
vivid floral nose with bright berry and cherry fruit, as well as
some woody, spicy notes. Supple direct palate with nice grainy
structure and sleek berry fruits. Chunky and direct with good
structure. 92/100
Calços de Tanha 2014 Douro, Portugal
Retails at just €6.5. From the Baixo Corgo. Fresh, floral and supple
with nice pure raspberry and cherry fruit with good acidity and some
direct fruitiness. Juicy, lively and delicious. 89/100
Calços de Tanha 2008 Douro, Portugal
Light herbal and fresh with floral overtones and nice cherry and
berry fruits. Has hints of tar and high acidity. Lean and spicy.
87/100
Calços de Tanha 2005 Douro, Portugal
Juicy and a bit herby with nice subtle herb and earth notes. Showing
some development with nice acidity and some savoury characters.
89/100
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