The wines of Herdade
do Esporão, Alentejo, Portugal
Herdade
do Esporão, Apartado 31, 7200-999 Reguengos de Monsaraz, Portugal
Tel. 351 266 509270 Fax:
351 266 503586
E-mail: herdade@esporao.com
Website: www.esporao.com
UK agent: John E.
Fells (info@fells.co.uk)
See:
a more recent
report on these wines here
Winemaker
David Baverstock is doing interesting work here. Although he’s
been working in Portugal for 20 years, you could say that his
Australian roots are evident in the style of some of these wines.
Portugal’s Alentejo is a hot region, and coupled with
Baverstock’s penchant for American oak, the resulting style is a
ripe, spicy, accessible one.
Located in
Reguengos de Monsaraz, 180 km south of Lisbon, the estate was
purchased by current owners Finagra in 1973, but it wasn’t until
1989 that the first Esporão wine was released. Further expansion has
increased the area under vine to a staggering 550 ha. It’s a
thoroughly modern operation, both in terms of viticulture and
winemaking.
Esporão is an important estate: as well as producing a
large quantity of very good wine, its prominence on export markets
over the last decade has raised the profile of the Alentejo as a
quality wine region outside Portugal, and no doubt has encouraged
other producers to follow its lead.
Alandra
Branco 2001
Very bright modern herby edge to the nose. Herby and fresh on
the palate, this is interesting, modern stuff. Successful. Very
good (£4.99)
Monte
Velho Branco 2001
Modern, fresh, full flavoured and crisp. Quite herby. Nice
stuff in a modern style. Very good (£4.99 SH Jones)
Defesa
Branco 2001
Quite a serious herby, nutty nose. Rich, intense nutty palate
with attractive fruit and some effective oaking. Very good+ (£6.49)
Esporão
Reserva Branco 2000
Very attractive full, nutty nose with some well integrated
oak. Attractive nutty palate is quite rich and ripe with a
coconutty edge. Very attractive stuff, if a bit oaky. Very
good/excellent (£7.99 SH Jones)
Alandra
Tinto 2001
This red wine shows attractive cherry fruit with a bit of
spice. Soft and rich textured, with good density. Great commercial
winemaking. Very good (£4.99)
Monte
Velho Tinto 2001
Bright cherry fruit with a nice texture on the palate. Good
acidity. Attractive stuff. Very good (£4.99 Majestic, Wine
Society, SH Jones)
Defesa
Tinto 2000
Quite a serious style. The nose displays rich berry fruit with
a nice spicy character from the French oak. Lovely density of rich
fruit on the palate with a herby, liquoricey edge and firm, spicy
tannins. Impressive stuff. Very good/excellent
Esporão
Reserva Tinto 1999
Lovely rich nose displaying herby, spicy berry/cherry fruit
and some oak influence. The palate shows good density of spicy
fruit with good acidity and a rich, complex wine in a modern
mould. Very good/excellent (£8.49 Nethergate, Berry Bros,
Portland Wine, £9.99 Lay & Wheeler, Great Northern Wine
Company)
Bastardo
2000
Deep coloured. Very forward spicy nose with striking raspberry
fruit, rich and full. Rich, lush, concentrated palate dominated by
raspberry fruit with spicy complexity and firm tannins. Very
good/excellent (£7.99 for 50 cl, Portland Wine)
Touriga
Nacional 2000
Enticing nose of ripe, sweet plummy blackberry and raspberry
fruit, with some spicy oak notes. Palate is concentrated with lots
of pure, sweet blackberry and raspberry fruit, together with high
acidity and some more spicy oak. Quite tannic at the moment, this
is a forward, attractive wine that should age well. Aussie style:
blind you could mistake this for a cool climate Shiraz. Very
good/excellent (£7.99 for 50 cl Portland Wine)
Syrah
2000
Opaque red/black colour. Forward, attractive spicy nose is
modern and lush, with liquoricey fruit. The palate is rich, tannic
and fruity with lots of spicy vanillin character from the American
oak. Very good+ (£7.99 for 50 cl)
Esporão
Garrafeira 1999
A premium blend of Touriga Nacional, Syrah and Trincadeira.
Very deep purple/black colour. The nose shows deep berry fruit and
quite a bit of oak influence, with notes of spice, vanilla and
coconut. It’s wonderfully rich and concentrated on the palate,
which is opulent and rich, with a pronounced spicy character.
Classy stuff in a modern style. Very good/excellent (retail will
be about £12)
For
tasting notes of other Portuguese wines click
here
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wines tasted
April 2002; article published September 2002 |