The
wines of Maximin
Grünhaus, Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
D-54318 Mertesdorf/Trier, Germany
Tel: 06 51 51 11 Fax: 0651 5 21 22
E-mail: info@vonschubert.com
Web: www.vonschubert.com
Although
my experience with them isn’t as broad as I’d like it to be, Dr
Carl Ferdinand von Schubert’s wines are among my favourites from all
of Germany. If there’s a single descriptor I could use to describe
them it would be ‘precision’. They’re focused, precise,
aromatic, minerally expressions of the best that the Riesling grape
can produce.
Von Schubert (pictured right) acknowledges that the hot
2003 vintage is a little atypical, but he puts his good results this
year down to the fact that they’ve invested in their vineyards. The
use of organic fertilizer has meant that the soils have good structure
and in hot vintages are able to retain what little rain there is much
better.
He makes wines from three sites, but two are far more
significant in terms of volume. The Abstberg vineyard is
on blue (Devonian) slate. This is his best site. The wines often have
more minerally character at the beginning, opening up later, and
sometimes have cassis aromas. They always have good acidity. The
Herrenberg has red slate soils, and makes wines that are softer, with
more fruit and different acidity. Both are monopoles (Grünhaus owns
the entire vineyard).
Maximin Grünhauser Abstberg Riesling Kabinett 2002
Fantastically expressive, this has a minerally, focused, precise
nose that is very delicate and aromatic. The palate is precise and
beautifully expressive with nice weight and lovely mineality and
balance. Some honeyed richness, too. Very good/excellent 93/100 (£12.45
Lay & Wheeler)
Maximin Grünhauser Abstberg Riesling Spätlese 2003
Quite rich, fruity and rounded with melony fruit, but still
showing some minerality. The palate is rich and full with ripe open
fruit, and a spicy core underneath. Impressive: full and rich but with
a focused minerally core. Very good/excellent 92/100 (£14.95 Lay
& Wheeler)
Maximin Grünhauser Herrenberg Riesling Auslese 2003
Bright, forward focused nose displaying open appley, lemony and
honeyed fruit. The palate is broad and rich textured with good acid,
but lacks the depth of mineral character of the other wines. Still,
lovely stuff in a forward style. Very good/excellent 90/100 (£17.95
Lay & Wheeler)
Maximin Grünhauser Herrenberg Riesling
Beerenauslese 2003
A bit of a treat to get to try this rarity, from half bottle. Very
forward ripe, peachy melony fruit. The palate is thick, rich and
peachy with a marmaladey edge. This is quite delicious. Ripe and full,
in a sweet, rich style. Very good/excellent 92/100
Other UK stockists of these wines include Howard
Ripley, Justerini & Brooks and Adnams. For others, see www.wine-searcher.com
Wines tasted October 2004
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