The
wines of Luis Pato, Bairrada, Portugal
[Editor's note: A much more recent, in depth review of
Luis' wines in now available here.]
One thing you may have noticed about Luis Pato’s top wines
is that various species of wildfowl feature prominently on the labels.
Ever wondered why? It’s because ‘Pato’ is Portuguese for 'duck',
so it’s a sort of visual pun.
The man himself is an intelligent, press-friendly ex-chemist,
and he presented these wines himself. Ironically, although he’s the
one person who has probably done the most for the international
visibility and reputation of the Bairrada region, Pato longer bottles
any of his wines under the Bairrada appellation. Instead, he uses the
wider generic Beiras label, as a protest against what he considers to
be an over-legislative attitude of the regulating authorities.
Pato is often tagged as a modernist, a label he seems unsure
about. He claims to ‘keep the tradition’, choosing to work
exclusively with Bairrada’s traditional red grape, the Baga.
‘I’m not an oenologist’, says Pato, ‘but as a chemical
engineer, I try to optimise what I do. I know about wines born in the
vineyards, and I always try to make improvements each vintage’.
French oak is used here, with the new oak mainly reserved for the
whites. Pato notes that sometimes it is hard to distinguish the Baga
tannins from the oak tannins (I find I’m often picking up oak in
Bairrada, even when no new oak is used), and that the Baga grape
doesn’t really benefit from new oak.
Most of the wines tasted here are cask (or tank) samples, and
this is indicated where appropriate. The wines are uniformly of a good
quality, and while the prices are appropriate for the quality on
offer, I suspect these wines might be a hard sell, simply because most
people are rather unfairly looking for a bargain when they turn to
Portugal.
Vinho Formal 2000 Beiras
Bairrada is predominantly a red wine region, but some interesting
whites are also made. This one is 100% Bical. Very bright piercing
lemony nose leads to an attractive fresh modern palate with a savoury
nutty edge. Quite a lot of character here in this softly-textured
white wine. Very good+ (£13.50)
Maria Gomes NV, Bairrada
This sparkling wine displays a striking sweet herby nose. The
palate displays bracing acidity with a yeasty, caramel-like edge.
Unusual and interesting: quite rich. Very good+ (£7.99)
Luis Pato Baga 2001 Beiras (cask sample)
Very bright purple, with a vivid savoury, rich spicy nose. The
palate is firm and tannic. This is very spicy and quite oaky, but has
a serious, drying finish. Lovely stuff and good value – this is
expected to retail at no more than £5.99. Very good+
Vinha Barrosa 1999, Beiras (cask sample)
This is one of Pato’s four single-vineyard wines, and it is
produced from 1 ha of 90 year old vines. Striking herby edge to the
rich, spicy nose, which is very appealing. Lovely chunky, spicy fruit
on the palate with good acidity. Very attractive. Very good/excellent
(£13.50)
Vinha Barrosa 2001, Beiras (cask sample)
pronounced toasty edge to the earthy, spicy fruit on the nose is
quite alluring. The palate is rich and spicy with good acidity and
firm tannins. Still very concentrated but higher acidity and lighter
in structure than some of the other wines. Very good/excellent
Vinha Pan 1999 Beiras (cask sample)
80% from 21 year old vines and 20% from 90 year old vines. Rich,
spicy enticing nose with an oaky edge leads to a chunky palate with
dark fruits and some chocolatey spicy notes. Good concentration. Very
good+ (£16.95)
Vinha Pan 2001 Beiras (cask sample)
Spicy cherry fruit on the nose, with a slightly caramel edge. The
palate has firm acidity and tannins with some wood. Almost
inapproachable now but with lots of promise. Highly concentrated. Very
good/excellent
Vinha Barrio 1998 Bairrada
From 2 ha of 90 year
old vines, planted in chalky clay. Fading a little at the rim,
otherwise deep coloured. Rich nose of caramel and berry fruits. The
palate is tannic, earthy and rich, evolving nicely with a spiciness to
the structured fruit. Very good/excellent (£16.95)
Vinha Barrio 2001 Beiras (cask sample)
Enticing nose is spicy, liquoricey and enticing. Very dense,
tannic palate shows great concentration and a minerally edge. Very
youthful, but lots happening here. Spicy finish. Very good/excellent
Quinta do Moinho 1998, Bairrada
12 year old vines; 100% Baga planted on chalky clay soils. 7.8 ha
vineyard. Deep coloured with a slightly fading rim. There’s some
gamey, earthy maturity on the nose, which is spicy and savoury. The
palate is spicy and chunky: still very tannic and quite earthy. Very
good+ (£16.95)
Quinta do Moinho 2001, Beiras (Cask sample)
Vivid purple colour. The dusty, slightly spicy nose is quite shy
and a little earthy. Dense, tannic palate is very earthy and spicy,
with a strong oak imprint. Very youthful and dense now. Very good+
Back to top
|