The
wines of Quinta do Feital
Some lovely
ageworthy Alvarinho from Marcial Dorado in Portugal's Vinho Verde
This is Vinho Verde, but not as you know
it. Marcial Dorado (above) is a Spaniard, from Galicia, who
loves Albariño. But he realised that some of the best Albariño
vineyards are over the border, in Portugal, where the variety is
known as Alvarinho. His Quinta do Feital vineyard has 70 year old
vines, many ungrafted, and he manages it organically. He’s also
bought a new vineyard in a great site at Seixas, with young vines
– currently these are used to make the Auratus wine.
‘Alvarinho has structure and acidity
and can age,’ says Marcial Dorado. He’s convinced of this
(although few in the region make wines for ageing), and his wines
prove it. Even the 2001 is still so fresh and pure (pictured below
in decanter). ‘Old Alvarinho typically goes to asparagus when you
first open it,’ says Marcial, suggesting that this is a reduction
character, ‘and then to marmalade.’
‘We are working with an amazing variety
and and amazing area,’ he says. ‘Nature always knows what to do,
even in 2006, a low acid year.’
These are really compelling wines, made
with natural fermentations and some lees stirring. Marcial has also
made his first unsulfured wines: he did this in 2004, 2006 and 2008,
but none have been commercialized yet.
UK agent is Indigo wines.
THE
WINES
(date of tasting indicated in month/year
format)
Quinta do Feital Dorada Alvarinho
Superior 2009 Vinho Verde, Portugal
Full yellow colour. Very stylish wine with grapefruit,
tangerine, pear and peach notes. Fresh and mineral yet quite rich
with it. This has texture and precision: a serious effort. 92/100
(01/14)
Quinta do Feital Auratus 2011 Vinho
Verde, Portugal
100% granite soils, younger vines, a blend of Alvarinho and
Trajadura, 6 months on lees. Fine, fresh, bright and yet textured
with nice depth of pear and white peach fruit. 90/100 (05/12)
Quinta do Feital Dorado Alvarinho
Superior 2009 Minho, Portugal
This spends a year on lees and is designed for ageing. Appley,
nutty and rounded with lovely weight and texture. There are some
oxidative notes but it’s still fresh, with broad, smooth texture.
So fine. 92/100 (05/12)
Quinta do Feital Dorado Alvarinho Sin
Sulphuro 2008 Minho, Portugal
No added sulfites. This was made in 2004 and 2006 as well, but
hasn’t been commercialised yet. Powerful and lively with apple,
citrus and some nuts. Fresh apple and pear characters. Interesting
with a real mineral dimension, showing richness and freshness in
tandem. 93/100 (05/12)
Quinta do Feital Dorado Alvarinho
Superior 2005 Minho, Portugal
Complex nut, pear and citrus nose. The palate is fresh and
lively with some toast and fresh pear fruit. Mineral too. Just
lovely. 93/100 (05/12)
Quinta do Feital Dorado Alvarinho
Superior 2001 Minho, Portugal
Lovely melon, peach and pear fruit. Textured and broad with nice
depth and a hint of honey, as well as pure citrus notes and mineral
freshness. This has aged beautifully. 92/100 (05/12)
See
also:
Visiting
Soalheiro, leading Vinho Verde producer
Visiting
Vinho Verde (series)
Wines
tasted as indicated
Find these wines with wine-searcher.com
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