Second growth Léoville Poyferré, Saint Julien, seems to be on form in the challenging vintages of 1997 and 1998: both these wines are deeply impressive, with the 1998 probably having the edge. Second wine Moulin Riche is also impressive in a slightly low key way. I was less impressed by the wines of sister St Estèphe property Château Le Crock, although these were very good in a different style. Interestingly, the second wine from this estate, Château La Croix, was a little more impressive than its big brother, perhaps because it is more forward at this stage.

Château Moulin Riche 1997, St Julien
Deep red/black colour. Slightly muted nose with minerals, smoke and a leafy edge. Classic palate showing ripe fruit, firm tannins and good balance. Not a big wine but still could age some. Very good

Château Moulin Riche 1998, St Julien
Deep red/black colour. Despite the slightly muted nose this is a powerful wine, with a bold, concentrated, dense palate. The firm tannins suggest this has great potential to develop. Very good+

Château Le Crock 1996, St Estèphe
Deep purple/red colour. Nice minerally nose, and with a herbal edge to fruit on the palate. Medium bodied with good balance. Very good.

Château Le Crock 1998, St Estèphe
Youthful purple/black colour, with a herby fruity nose. The palate is medium bodied and displays firm tannins. This one could age nicely. Good/very good.

Château Le Croix 1998, St Estèphe
Second wine of Le Crock, this is currently drinking better than its big brother. Deep red/purple colour, with sweet smoky fruit. Concentrated and dense on the palate with firm tannins. Very youthful and quite impressive. Very good+

Château Léoville Poyferré 1997, St Julien
Lovely, ripe herby/smoky nose is followed up with concentrated ripe fruit on the palate. Very attractive, showing nice balance, and drinkable now. Very good/excellent

Château Léoville Poyferré 1998, St Julien
Exotic nose: ripe and menthol-laced, smoky and herby. This is a huge wine. On the palate rich ripe fruit and new oak are nicely integrated, and the dense tannins indicate a promising future. Excellent.