Northern Rhône
2012
38 wines from the 2012 vintage tasted en primeur

On Monday (March 3
2014) I attended the Berry Brothers & Rudd Rhône en
primeur tasting. Although wines from both the southern and
northern Rhône were shown, I focused on the north, and almost
exclusively on Syrah, because I love it so much, and I didn’t have
enough time or palate capacity to do everything.
2012 is a good but not great vintage in
the region. It has made wines that show freshness, but which in some
cases lack the personality and depth you’d expect from these wines
in really good vintages. There were quite a few wines that I really
liked, and fortunately these weren’t just the expensive ones. Good
wines from St Joseph, Crozes Hermitage and Cornas seem to be the
smart buys in the northern Rhône at the moment.
The vast majority of these wines are cask
samples, so for this reason the score is a range, representing the
uncertainty of judging unfinished wines. Prices are in bond – to
these you’ll have to add duty plus VAT.
The BBR en
primeur offer is here.
Domaine François Villard Côte-Rôtie
Gallet Blanc 2012
Lovely floral, peppery nose with olives and cherries. The palate is
fresh, peppery and pure. It shows a little new oak but it’s pure,
floral and fine. 92–94 (6 for £168.00 ib)
Domaine Stéphane Ogier La Rosine Syrah
2012 Vin de Pays
Nice black cherries and plum fruit nose with some bright peppery
notes. The palate is focused and bright with spice and olives.
Structured and savoury. 91–93/100 (6 for £66.00)
Domaine Stéphane Ogier L'Âme Soeur
Seyssuel 2012 Vin de Pays
Fine, fresh and bright with focused red cherry fruit and good acid.
Mineral and pepper complexity; good focus. 92–94 (6 for £126.00)
Domaine Stéphane Ogier Côte-Rôtie 2012
Fresh and focused with mint, pepper and meat notes as well as pure
raspberry fruit. Lively with high acidity and a linearity. 92–94/100
(6 for £192.00)
Domaine Jean-Michel Gerin St Joseph 2012
Meaty nose with some roast coffee. The palate is sweet, ripe and
dense with meat and roasted notes from the oak. 90–91/100 (12 for
£144.00)
Domaine Jean-Michel Gerin Côte-Rôtie
Champin le Seigneur 2012
Meaty, spicy, savoury nose is peppery and a bit floral. The palate
is bright and fresh with lovely focus and texture, as well as black
cherries and meat. Some new oak evident. 91–93/100 (12 for £360.00)
Domaine Pierre Gaillard St Joseph Clos de
Cuminaille 2012
Bright, juicy and fresh with black cherries – a nice vivid peppery
expression of Syrah. Juicy and supple. 90–92/100 (6 for £78.00)
Domaine Pierre Gaillard Côte-Rôtie 2012
8% Viognier. Fresh and a bit juicy. Light bodied with some floral
cherry fruit and a bit of pepper. Sappy, fresh, elegant style.
90–92/100 (6 for £138.00)
Domaine Pierre Gaillard Côte-Rôtie Rose
Pourpre 2012
100% Syrah. Floral raspberries, cherries and spice on the nose with
some herbiness. There’s evident oak. Juicy, mineral, spicy palate is
light and quite elegant with juicy fruit. 91–93/100 (6 for £312.00)
Domaine Yves Cuilleron St Joseph L'Amarybelle
2012
Supple and juicy in a fresh style, with nice cherry and raspberry
fruit. Subtle pepper notes. Light. 89–91/100 (6 for £90.00)
Domaine Yves Cuilleron Côte-Rôtie
Bassenon 2012
Juicy and focused with fresh red berry and cherry fruit. Quite
mineral and bright with nice focus. Lighter style. 90–91/100 (6 for
£180.00)
Domaine Combier Crozes-Hermitage 2012
Lovely meaty olive nose is ripe and expressive with some perfumed
violetty notes. The palate is fresh and expressive with lovely
purity. Ripe yet fresh, this delivers immediate pleasure. 92–94/100
(12 for £144.00)
Domaine Combier Crozes-Hermitage Clos des
Grives 2012
Hint of mint and olive supplementing the black cherry fruit on the
nose. The palate is lively and quite serious with spice, herbs, some
meat, black cherries and plums. 93–94/100 (6 for £120.00)
Domaine du Colombier Crozes-Hermitage
2012
Minty edge to the nose which shows fresh raspberry and cherry fruit.
Supple and tasty with nice berry fruit palate. 90–92/100 (12 for
£120.00)
Domaine du Colombier Crozes-Hermitage
Cuvée Gaby 2012
Fresh, bright and a bit peppery with nice pure raspberry and cherry
fruit. Good acidity and grip here. Primary, structured and pure.
91–93/100 (6 for £78.00)
Domaine du Colombier Hermitage
2012
Lively, bright, fresh and supple with some elegance to the bright
raspberry and cherry fruit. Primary, structured and pure. 91–93/100
(6 for £216.00)
Domaine Maxime Graillot Crozes-Hermitage
Equinoxe Domaine des Lises 2012
Screwcapped. Exuberant peppery nose showing fresh, slightly minty
cherry and plum fruit. The palate is bright, zippy and juicy with
fresh raspberry fruit. 89–91/100 (12 for £114.96)
Domaine Maxime Graillot Crozes-Hermitage
Les Lises 2012
Peppery, slightly meaty nose with some substance on the fresh,
vibrant black cherry and plum palate. Pure with nice grip. 90–92/100
(12 for £144.00)
Domaine Maxime Graillot St Joseph
Domaine des Lises 2012
Floral, peppery black fruits nose leads to an attractive, dense,
structured palate offering peppery black fruits and potential for
development. Nicely savoury. 92–94/100 (12 for £156.00)
Domaine Coursodon St Joseph L'Olivaie
2012
Distinctive, meaty, peppery nose has notes of mint and olives. The
palate is fresh and focused with supple black fruits and
fine-grained tannins, as well as nice pepper notes. Very stylish
with mid-term ageing potential. 92–94/100 (6 for £96.00)
Domaine Emmanuel Darnaud Crozes-Hermitage
Les Trois Chênes 2012
Lovely complex, savoury pepper nose with black cherries and plums,
as well as some meatiness. Lovely savoury, grippy palate with fresh
black fruits and some meat, as well as a hint of animal. This is a
lovely old-fashioned style. 92–94/100 (12 for £144.00)
Domaine Marc Sorrel Hermitage Classique
2012
Paler coloured than most. Lovely floral, fine peppery red cherry
nose. The palate is fresh and expressive, with lovely red cherries
and fine mineral and pepper notes. Burgundian finesse here: elegant
and precise. 93–95/100 (6 for £264.00)
Domaine Marc Sorrel Hermitage, Le Gréal
2012
Fine, peppery cherry fruit nose. Lovely taut, fine, structured
palate with fine, floral cherry and plum fruit as well as good
structure. Expressive, mineral and taut, this is a beautiful wine
with real potential. Not a blockbuster. 94–96/100 (6 for £450.00)
Maison Chapoutier Hermitage Blanc Chante
Alouette 2012
Expressive white peach and pear nose with subtle nuts, leading to a
fresh, textured, fine palate with peachy fruit and nutty richness.
92–94/100 (6 for £162.00)
Maison Chapoutier Ermitage Blanc Le Méal
2012
Rich pear and peach fruit with some spice on the nose. Fresh,
concentrated palate with pear, nuts, peach and grapey notes.
Textured and rich yet retains freshness. Compelling. 93–95/100 (6
for £414.00)
Maison Chapoutier Crozes-Hermitage Les
Meysonniers 2012
Tastes like a supermarket wine, albeit a nice one. Very pure
aromatic beery fruits with sweet perfume and a bright, juicy palate.
Modern style. 88–90/100 (6 for £48.00)
Maison Chapoutier Ermitage Le Pavillon
2012
Concentrated and rich, and showing some barrel influence. Spicy,
ripe, fresh cherry and berry fruits on the palate. Very modern,
sleek and a bit oaky. May develop well though. 91–93/100 (6 for
£732.00)
Maison Ferraton Crozes-Ermitage Le Grand
Courtil 2012
Ripe, sleek and modern with lush black fruits. Quite a bit of oak
impact. 87–89/100 (6 for £84.00)
Maison Ferraton Ermitage Le Méal 2012
Ripe and dense with some spice and charred oak. Ripe berry fruits.
Very primary with good structure and nice density, as well as lots
of oak. 89–91/100 (6 for £276.00)
Maison Nicolas Perrin Crozes-Hermitage 2012
Lovely dense meaty nose of ripe, spicy black fruits with some olive
notes. The palate is ripe and rich with dense, spicy blackberry and
black cherry fruit with lovely meaty undertones. 92–94/100 (6 for
£72.00)
Maison Nicolas Perrin Côte-Rôtie 2012
Perfumed and slightly minty cherry fruit nose. Supple, warm, spicy
palate with ripe cherries and plums. There’s a bit of warm, sweet
oak too. Nice freshness; a lighter style. 91–93/100 (6 for £174.00)
Maison Nicolas Perrin Ermitage 2012
Fresh, supple and vibrant cherry and plum fruit. Elegant, fresh
style with nice structure and purity. Good focus. 92–94/100 (6 for
£234.00)
Domaine du Tunnel St Joseph 2012
Very fresh, supple, bright raspberry fruit showing nice purity and
freshness. Some olive and pepper notes too. Good potential.
92–93/100 (6 for £108.00)
Domaine du Tunnel Cornas 2012
Bright, fresh with nice black cherry and raspberry fruit. Supple
with nice acidity and goo tannins, with a savoury edge. Very fresh
style. 92–94/100 (6 for £132.00)
Domaine Durand St Joseph Les Coteaux 2012
Fresh, lively and supple with bright raspberry and black cherry
fruit and some nice pepper notes. Juicy, fresh and attractive.
90–92/100 (12 for £144.00)
Domaine Durand Cornas Empreintes 2012
Olive and spice nose. Nice dense cherry and berry fruit with a
savoury, spicy edge. Good structure, with some freshness. 91–93/100
(12 for £228.00)
Domaine Vincent Paris Cornas Granit 60
2012
Dense yet fresh with good structure to the peppery fruit. Real
presence here. Nice cherry, raspberry and plum fruit with firm,
fine-grained tannins. 92–94/100(6 for £138.00)
Domaine Vincent Paris Cornas La Geynale
2012
Fresh, focused, bright juicy cherry and plum fruit with nice tannins
as well as some peppery savouriness. Good tannins on the finish.
Structured and fine. 92–94/100 (6 for £156.00)
See
also:
The Hill of
Hermitage (series)
Wines
tasted 01/11
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