One of the most dynamic producers in Portugal, the wines of Quinta
dos Roques are immediately identifiable by the striking yellow
capsules and label design, and the fact that they come in what must be
the world's heaviest wine bottles. The estate is run by Manuel Lopes
de Oliveira and his son-in-law Luis Lourenço, and winemaking is in
the hands of Jorge Brites and Professor Virgilio Loureiro. There are
12 blocks of vines with a total vineyard area of 40 hectares.
Rather confusingly, Quinta das Maiasa separate property whose
wines are made in the dos Roques winery by the same teamhas now
adopted the same bottle design. Their 12 ha of old vine vineyards
(dominated by the Jaen variety) are at a higher altitude than the
vineyards of dos Roques. The two properties make wines different in
character but of a similar high standard. Here, I'm assessing their
wines together.
Quinta das Maias Malvasia Fina
The first vintage of this barrel-fermented Malvasia. The nose shows
subtle, toasty barrel-ferment character, leading to a palate
displaying lean fruit and classy oak. It's bone dry and quite fresh,
with some nutty notes. Very good (retails at £7.75)
Quinta dos Roques Encruzado 2000
From yields of 30 hl/ha, this doesn't undergo malolactic fermentation.
It's fresh and lean, with lemon and herby notes on the nose. The
palate has fresh acidity and some attractive nutty notes. Quite lean
and savoury, with well integrated oak. Very good (c. £10)
Quinta dos Roques Dão 1998
The regular Tinto, this is 50% Touriga Nacional, and spends 6 months
in new French oak. It has a stunning ripe, herby nose with some exotic
caramel and menthol notes from the new oak. The palate is rich and
tannic with spicy oak and a dry finish. Attractive, but a touch firm
at the moment. Very good+ (c. £8.50)
Quinta dos Roques Alfrocheiro Preto 1999
A rich, ripe exotic nose shows prominent spice and menthol character.
Great concentration on the palate with good complexity and a fair
amount of oak present. Needs time, this one. Very good/excellent (c.
£15)
Quinta das Maias Jaen 1999
5000 bottles produced. The bright fruity nose shows some cherry
and raspberry fruit. Serious, fairly tannic palate firm acidity. This
is a savoury, well-structured wine that's best with food. Very good+
(c. £15)
Quinta dos Roques Touriga Nacional 1999
Rich, sweet nose of herbs and caramel. Chewy, herby, tannic palate
with good concentration and high acidity. However, it all needs a fair
bit of time to resolve; don't drink now or I suspect you'll be wasting
your money. Very good+ (c. £17)