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De Morgenzon
Impressive wines from this revitalized
Stellenbosch (South Africa) winery
Website:
www.demorgenzon.co.za
De Morgenzon is a beautifully situated
Stellenbosch estate, with vineyards ranging from 200–400 m, on the
slopes of the Ribbokkop. It was bought in 2003 by Wendy and Hylton
Appelbaum, and since then it has risen to become one of
Stellenbosch’s star properties. In particular, the De Morgenzon
Reserve Chenin Blanc is one of South Africa’s leading examples of
this variety, in my opinion at least. The reds are also impressive,
and I’d expect the wines here to keep getting better given the team
involved.
Winemaking here has been in the hands of
Carl Van de Merwe (above) since 2010. Previously, he’d been winemaker at
Quoin Rock. Quoin Rock were making excellent wines, but some
financial issues meant that they were put on the market, and Wendy
Appelbaum bought Quoin Rock’s vineyards and winery at auction. But
it turns out that the auction house, Auction Alliance, were doing
some shady ghost bidding, and they picked the wrong person to try to
diddle. Wendy has been hugely successful in business and is one of
the wealthiest women in South Africa, and she took on Auction
Alliance CEO Rael Levitt, and won, exposing the corrupt practices
that were being employed. Someone else ended up buying Quoin Rock.
ne peculiarity is that De Morgenzon pipe
classical music through their vineyard 24 hours a day. They state
that this is because this helps with the ripening process, and
explain the reasoning behind this here on their
website. Hylton Appelbaum clearly likes the music, though: among
other interests he is the owner of Classic FM South Africa, which he
founded in 1997.
THE WINES
De Morgenzon DMZ Sauvignon Blanc 2012
Western Cape, South Africa
A blend of Elgin, Durbanville and Stellenbosch fruit. Fresh,
aromatic and quite perfumed with tropical and citrus fruits. The
palate is fresh and nicely grassy and green with a lively, precise
personality. 90/100 (09/12)
De Morgenzon DMZ Sauvignon Blanc 2012
Western Cape, South Africa
Fresh, lively and precise with nice lemon and grapefruit characters.
Rounded and lively with nice weight. 90/100 (09/13)
De Morgenzon DMZ Chardonnay 2012 Western
Cape, South Africa
Lively, focused and fresh with some citrus and white peach notes.
Nice weight; lively. 89/100 (09/13)
De Morgenzon DMZ Chardonnay 2012 Western
Cape, South Africa
Lightly wooded plus some fermented in Nomblot eggs, partial
malolactic fermentation. Rounded texture with fresh fruit and a bit
of spice. Nice purity. 88/100 (09/12)
De Morgenzon Maestro White 2012
Stellenbosch, South Africa
A blend of Chenin, Chardonnay, Roussanne and Viognier. Rich,
textured and lively with lovely fruit: bold pear and peach notes
with some spice. It’s rich and creamy but it still has good
definition. 92/100 (09/13)
De Morgenzon DMZ Chenin Blanc 2012
Stellenbosch, South Africa
Rounded, lively and fruity with fresh apple, pear and white peach
fruit. Very pure. 88/100 (09/13)
De Morgenzon Reserve Chenin Blanc 2012
Stellenbosch, South Africa
Ripe, bold and richly textured with lovely pear and peach fruit, as
well as notes of ripe apples and herbs. Attractive spicy intensity.
Concentrated and rich yet fresh. 94/100 (09/13)
De Morgenzon Reserve Chenin Blanc 2011
Stellenbosch, South Africa
41 year old vines which were originally bush vines but which have
been lifted to a one-layer trellis. 30% new oak, as well as some
foudres. Natural ferment. Fresh, complex and intense with lovely
precision and good acidity. Pear, nuts and spice with some honeyed
sweetness. Rich yet fresh. 93/100 (09/12)
De Morgenzon Reserve Chenin Blanc 2009
Stellenbosch, South Africa
Fresh, vivid and fine with some nutty intensity. Grapefruit and herb
notes as well as some warmth. The palate is textured and broad yet
retains freshness, and is evolving very nicely. Lovely melon, pear
and apple fruit. 94/100 (09/12)
De Morgenzon Garden Vineyards Rosé 2013
Western Cape, South Africa
Pale pink in colour. Lovely textured, rounded cherry and plum fruit.
Nice weight with subtlety of flavour and appealing texture. Refined.
90/100 (09/13)
De Morgenzon DMZ Syrah 2011 Stellenbosch,
South Africa
88% Syrah, 20% whole bunch. Fresh and focused with attractive ripe
cherry fruit. Pure and expressive with some raspberry notes and good
definition, as well as some fresh pepperiness. 92/100 (09/13)
De Morgenzon Maestro Red 2011
Stellenbosch, South Africa
A Bordeaux-style blend with five different varieties. Lovely fresh,
vivid nose is pure and fresh, with elegant blackcurrant fruit and a
hint of chalk. So fresh and vivid on the palate, which is bright and
focused with pure, well defined fruit. 94/100 (09/12)
De Morgenzon Maestro Red 2011
Stellenbosch, South Africa
A Bordeaux blend, led by Merlot. Lovely fresh black fruits. Pure,
lively and expressive with blackcurrant and blackberry. Nice weight
and purity with some grippy structure. 93/100 (09/13)
Wines
tasted as indicated (day/month)
Find these wines with wine-searcher.com
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