The wines of Van Volxem, Saar, Germany

Roman Niewodniscanski’s Van Volxem estate is controversial. Not too far back, he purchased this estate, located on the site of a Jesuit monastery in the centre of Wiltingen (Saar) with the view to restoring it to make the sorts of wines it would have made when German Rieslings fetched higher prices than Bordeaux. He went back to the 19th century and consulted maps drawn up for tax reasons, which showed the best vineyards, many of which had been lost sight of in the 20th century.

He’s given up on the Pradikat system, and instead makes wines that he reckons express their vineyard sites best, from late-harvested grapes fermented through to dryness (or relatively close to). These are a bit different to the classic Mosel-Saar-Ruwer style, but they’re pretty impressive, nonetheless.

These wines are available in the UK from Berry Bros & Rudd, whose prices are noted in brackets.

Van Volxem Saar Riesling 2002 Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Lovely tight herb-tinged nose with smoky richness. The palate is rich and concentrated with nice rich texture and some sweetness to the lemony fruit. Fresh but rich at the same time. A fantastic medium-sweet style Riesling. Very good/excellent 91/100 (£9.50)

Van Volxem Scharzhofberger 2003 Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Lovely minerally freshness to the sweet, richly fruited nose. Complex and beguiling. The palate is richly textured, bold and quite sweet with nice definition to the fruit. Lovely precision and a long finish. Very good/excellent 93/100 (£15.95)

Van Volxem Kanzemer Altenberg Alte Reben 2003 Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Nice fresh, precise edge to the honeyed melony fruit on the nose. Concentrated, nicely textured palate with good freshness and a delicious sweet edge. Very good/excellent 92/100 (£28.95)

Van Volxem Wiltinger Kupp 2003 Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Complex nose showing spice, herbs and melon: sweet and inviting. The palate is concentrated and medium dry with a lovely savoury edge to the mineral-laced melony fruit. Very good/excellent 93/100 (£15.95)

Wines tasted 05/05
Find these wines with wine-searcher.com

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