Oregon
wine country, part 15
Torii Mor
Website: www.toriimorwinery.com
What is now Torii Mor began with an
old vineyard, planted in 1972 (this is almost pre-history by Oregon
standards), and purchased by Don Olsen in 1985. Torii Mor was
originally established as a 1000 case winery in 1993 to use the
fruit from this vineyard, which is now run organically. These days,
fruit from the Olsen family vineyard is supplemented by grapes
purchased from other vineyards. In 2007, 270 tons were crushed, and
annual production is in the region of 15 000 cases.
I met with Margie Olsen (above)
for a tour of the winery and a tasting.
From 1993 to 2004 Torii Mor leased a
big winery building in downtown Dundee, but now they have their own
winery. The winery is quite new, and some further construction is
planned. The distinctive feature of the new building is its low
environmental impact. It currently has a 45 kW solar power array,
which provides half of the electricity needed at the heaviest stage
of production. An additional 25 kW array is planned for the final
stage of construction. Margie assures me that this is very expensive
to install.
The winery also has an acquifer that
is tapped into by a 600 foot artesian well. There is also rainfall
capture, too. Torii Mor is planning to go for LEED (Leadership in
Energy and Environmental Design) certification.
Winemaking is in the hands of
Jacques Tardy (above), originally from Burgundy. He’s been
in the USA for 26 years (he grew up in Nuits St Georges but met an
American girl), and has worked in Oregon for the last 18, four of
these as winemaker at Torii Mor. Jacques likes to work with small
lots: he buys grapes from 18 different vineyards and keeps the
clones and lots separate. So the winery has 110 4 by 4 by 4 metre
bins for fermenting in.
![](oregon_347.jpg)
Torii Mor Pinot Gris 2007
Willamette Valley
Fresh, rounded fruit with a hint of minerality and a smooth
texture. There’s nice depth here: quite a rich style, but still
dry. Nice balance and freshness. 87/100
Torii Mor Chardonnay 2006 Oregon
Broad, nutty nose with real depth and some toasty notes. The
palate is broad and rich with lovely nuttiness and a hint of
butterscotch. Nice depth: a stylish wine. Has 4.5% Pinot Blanc in
it. 89/100
Côte d’Mor Viognier 2007
California
From a vineyard in the Sierra Foothills owned by a colleague of
Don’s. Whole cluster pressing. Peachy, aromatic nose with lovely
honeysuckle sweetness. The palate is intense and rich with lovely
bold flavours. Rich, integrated and beautiful. 92/100
Torii Mor Pinot Noir 2006 Oregon
From fruit that doesn’t go into the single vineyard and
reserve wines. Sweet, smooth, berryish fruit on the palate. Quite
expressive with a lovely cherryish character and a spicy finish.
Pure and quite balanced. Attractive stuff. 89/100
![](oregon_357.jpg)
Torii Mor Deux Verres Reserve
2006 Willamette Valley
Vibrant, fresh red berry and cherry nose with some
herbal/tobaccoey depth. The palate is rounded and smooth with nice
depth and fruit, backed up by some earthy notes. Nicely savoury.
91/100
Torii Mor Dundee Hills Select
2006
Lovely expressive nose: sweet and rounded with some herby earthy
complexity to the bright cherries. The palate is sweet and rounded
with smooth silky texture and good acidity. Ripe with some new oak
evident. 91/100
Torii Mor Olsen Estate Pinot Noir
2006
There’s a freshness here to the sweet, pure cherry and
raspberry fruit, as well as a spicy edge. The palate is ripe and
quite lush with pure red fruits backed up by spice and acidity. Oak
is evident but not obtrusive. 92/100
Torii Mor La Colina Vineyard
Pinot Noir 2006
Beautifully elegant with open cherry fruit and a nice lifted
character, as well as some subtle herbiness. The palate is lighter
than the others with some lovely rounded berry and cherry fruit.
Smooth textured and ripe but with elegance and supporting acidity,
too. 93/100
Torii Mor Late Harvest Gewürztraminer
2006
71 g/litre residual sugar, 11% alcohol. Beautifully fruity and
rounded with nice grape notes. Thick textured and quite delicious.
89/100
See also:
Wines tasted 07/08
Find these wines with wine-searcher.com
Back
to top
|