Riesling Grapes from Gaisberg in the
Kamptal
Austrian
Riesling Triumphs at
International Tasting
Riesling Tasting, Groucho Club, London; 11th October 2004
Austrian wines can be fantastic, but
traditionally there's been a general lack of appreciation for them
outside their domestic market. This is changing. People are
increasingly realizing that the best Austrian wines are brilliant. But
world class? Is Austrian Riesling potentially as serious as top
examples from from the Mosel or Rheingau? Or top examples from Alsace?
One way to find out is to pitch a
range of Austrian wines blind against their competition. With Grüner
Veltliner, this was tried successfully in 2002, when great examples
were put in a blind tasting of some of the world's leading Chardonnays
(there are no non-Austrian Grüners, of course). They did brilliantly.
The idea behind this tasting was to try the same with Riesling, and
last month a selection of wines were put together by wine writer Jancis Robinson and wine dealer and collector
Jan Erik Paulson. The tasting panel consisted of sommeliers,
journalists and wine dealers and the format was six flights ordered by vintage, ranging from
1990 to 2002.
To
many people not familiar with Austrian wines, the result was
surprising. Eight of the top fourteen wines chosen by the
panel were Austrian. The table below lists the results, with average
score out of 20 (I don't think these scores were normalized to take
into account the scoring ranges of the panel; the organizers didn't
realize that you can't just average the group scores and come up with
a meaningful statistic).
I
have to say, I am hugely sceptical of these exercises, and of panel
tastings in general. I've done them before. I trust my own palate a
good deal, but when I've compared the pooled group results with my own
I've often been bewildered. I've also tasted wines behind dozens of
other journalists who've missed low level taint in a wine. And because
of individual differences in perception, let alone in learning and
tasting ability, pooling results from several tasters usually adds
noise, not clarity. So in this context, I don't think there's a huge
amount of significance about the difference between a score of 17.86 and one of 17.36, even
though this separates six places in this table. In fact, it's hard to
argue that there is any real distinction between any of the placements
in this table without proper statistical analysis. These criticisms
aside, what this tasting does illustrate is that the best Austrian
Rieslings are competing right at the top, and deserve to be taken
seriously.
Data
are reproduced courtesy of Wines of Austria.
rank |
name
of wine |
score |
1 |
Weissenkirchner
Achleiten 1990, Smaragd; Prager/Bodenstein, Wachau, Austria |
18.71 |
2 |
Clos
Ste Hune 1990; Trimbach, Alsace, France |
17.86 |
3 |
Rüdesheimer
Berg Schlossberg 1997; Georg Breuer, Rheingau, Germany |
17.82 |
4 |
Riesling
Kellerberg 1995, Smargad, F.X. Pichler, Wachau, Austria |
17.64 |
4 |
Gimmeldinger
Mandelgarten Spätlese trocken 2002; Christmann, Pfalz, Germany |
17.64 |
6 |
Loibner
Vision 2002, Smaragd, Högl, Wachau, Austria |
17.39 |
6 |
Riesling
Vinothekfüllung 2002 Smaragd; Knoll, Wachau, Austria |
17.39 |
8 |
Riesling,
Loibenberg 1990, Smaragd, Knoll, Wachau, Austria |
17.36 |
9 |
Riesling
Zöbinger Heiligenstein 2002; Hiedler, Kamptal, Austria |
17.29 |
10 |
Riesling
Weissenkirchner Achleiten 2001; Smaragd; Prager, Wachau, Austria |
17.25 |
10 |
Riesling
Zöbinger Heiligenstein, Alte Reben 1997; Bründlmayer, Kamptal,
Austria |
17.25 |
10 |
Auslese
trocken 1990; Gunderloch, Rhein-Hessen, Germany |
17.25 |
13 |
Monzinger
Halenberg Auslese trocken 2001; Emrich-Schönleber, Nahe,
Germany |
17.18 |
14 |
Rüdesheimer
Berg Schlossberg 2002,
Johannes Leitz, Rheingau, Germany |
17.14 |
15 |
Riesling
Loibenberg 1997, Smaragd; Alzinger, Wachau, Austria |
17.11 |
16 |
Riesling
Weissenkirchner Achleiten 2001; Smaragd, Rudi Pichler, Wachau,
Austria |
17.07 |
17 |
Riesling
Nussberg 2002; Wieninger, Wien, Austria |
17.04 |
18 |
Riesling,
Zöbinger Heiligenstein, Lyra 2002; Bründlmayer, Kamptal,
Austria |
17.00 |
18 |
Schlossberg
Grand Cru Cuvée Ste. Catherine 1997; Weinbach-Faller, Alsace,
France |
17.00 |
20 |
Isolation
Ridge 2003; Frankland Estate, Western Australia, Australia |
16.96 |
20 |
Brand
2001; Zind-Humbrecht, Alsace, France |
16.96 |
22 |
Niederhäuser
Herrmannshöhle Spätlese 2002; H. Dönnhoff, Nahe, Germany |
16.93 |
23 |
Riesling
Privat 2002; Nigl, Kremstal, Austria |
16.89 |
24 |
Riesling
Vinothek 1990, Smaragd; Nikolaihof, Wachau, Austria |
16.79 |
25 |
Riesling
Unendlich 2002; F.X. Pichler, Wachau, Austria |
16.75 |
26 |
Kallstadter
Saumagen Spätlese trocken "R" 1990; Koehler-Rupprecht,
Pfalz, Germany |
16.68 |
27 |
Reserve
2003; Crawford River, Victoria, Australia |
16.61 |
27 |
Polish
Hill 1997; Grosset, Clare Valley, Southern Australia |
16.61 |
27 |
Cuvée
Frederic Emile 1997; Trimbach, Alsace, France |
16.61 |
30 |
Jesuitengarten
Spätlese trocken 2002; Wolf, Pfalz, Germany |
16.54 |
31 |
Riesling
Spitzer Singerriedel 1997, Smaragd; Hirtzberger, Wachau, Austria |
16.46 |
31 |
Rangen
de Than 1997; Zind Humbrecht, Alsace, France |
16.46 |
33 |
Hochheimer
Hölle Auslese trocken 2002; Franz Künstler, Rheingau, Germany |
16.43 |
34 |
Riesling
Gaisberg, Alte Reben 1997; Schloss Gobelsburg, Kamptal, Austria |
16.21 |
35 |
Riesling
"Hugel" 1997; Hommage à Jean Hugel, Hugel, Alsace,
France |
16.11 |
36 |
Riesling,
von den Terassen 1997, Mittelbach, Dürnstein, Wachau, Austria |
15.79 |
The tasting panel:
Neil
Beckett, J |
Matthew Wilkin, S |
Matt Skinner, S |
Troy Sutton, S |
Hamish Anderson, S |
Ronan Sayburn, S |
Jan-Erik Paulson, M + J |
Jancis Robinson, J |
Bill Baker, M |
Joelle Marti-Baron, S |
Nigel Sutcliffe, S + J |
Freddy Price, J |
Anthony Rose, J |
Stephen Browett, M |
|
|
J…
Journalist |
M… Merchant |
S… Sommelier |
see
also: tasting notes of Austrian wines; Austrian
red wines; Gruner Veltliner
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